Ben Smith - Putting Nova Scotia on the map. Again.

posted Nov 26, 2017, 7:55 AM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Nov 26, 2017, 8:47 AM ]

What does it mean to be a "world class" boulder problem? World class difficulty? World class aesthetics? World class movement? World class size and scale? 

Nova Scotia legend Ben Smith's latest project is undeniably all of these things. If the grandeur of smizzle's latest dream doesn't inspire wonderment, I suggest checking your pulse.



In the market for a fantastic V7?

posted Oct 25, 2017, 3:00 PM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Oct 25, 2017, 3:01 PM ]

There is a beautiful boulder sitting quietly in the woods behind corn and bung. A gorgeous line with great movement on generous holds. In an aesthetic birch grove, it climbs on jugs, under clings, and features high tension toe hooking followed by a victory lap on big holds out a cool mini prow feature. Fantastic! If you are in the market for a new fall V7, check it out. Probably a grade harder if you don't dab on the tree like I did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rCTxoxzdNU

New Videos - Deja Vu V8 and Burried Alive V8

posted Oct 21, 2017, 8:20 PM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Nov 26, 2017, 8:52 PM ]

As the unseasonably warm fall days continues, a few new videos of some rare lines were added to the Mobeta collection. Deja Vu V8 was repeated for the first time since the hold broke in early 2000. It is in a beautiful location and climbs surprisingly well with the new beta. It features a very hard classic Nova Scotia topout. 

Deja Vu used to feature a big move from a large undercling. It is now a more nuanced line relying on extra moves on small crimps and tough slopers.

Chris Eager on Deja Vu with the original beta.


An unexpected flash of the sit down to Tombstone, resulted in a sloppy send of Nick Sagar's challenging Burried Alive V8. Originally the same grade as the classic Au Bouleau around the corner - try them both and have a giggle at grading.




Nova Scotia's Other Top Boulderer

posted Oct 21, 2017, 8:37 AM by Dale Kahneman

Rumor has it Sebastian has been looking for a knee bar pad to attempt the second ascent of Nova Scotia's hardest boulder problem - Full Clip. To stay one step ahead, Ben Smith is putting in early work on an extension project that has single moves so hard that Seven Bays #Northsend champ Champ Guillaume Richard was unable to get off the pad. Full clip indeed.




Nova Scotia's Top Boulderer - Gripped Oct 2017

posted Oct 21, 2017, 8:18 AM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Oct 21, 2017, 8:20 AM ]

Check out this month's Gripped magazine for a write up on the Sebastian Pacey-Smith's quest of sending all 21 of Nova Scotia's V11+ Boulder problems. 

New Area - The River Styx

posted Apr 4, 2015, 2:25 PM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Apr 4, 2015, 2:45 PM ]

LOC - River Styx
click on the image to view the topo

16 years ago Ghislain Losier sent Nova Scotia's first V10 on the Bung boulder in the Land of Confusion. With nearly 2 decades of steady development, you'd be forgiven for assuming the Land of Confusion has been tapped out. However, when you consider that one of Nova Scotia's best boulder problems "Skills Inventory" was only discovered in 2009, the prospect of new discoveries is more optimistic. Losier's own guidebook alludes to the potential for further development in the area. He wasn't wrong.

Nearly a dozen new boulders have been found in a concentrated cluster only 150 meters from the popular "Eggs" area. The boulders were first noticed peaking out of the trees on joy ride in a borrowed row boat.  Since then, a groomed trail has been established for easy access from Eggs.

A few nice lines have already been established, with room for many more - particularly for high ball enthusiasts willing to take on the formidable "Kretos Boulder". 

The boulders are in a sheltered, south-facing valley at the mouth of the river that feeds Second Lake. Perfect cool weather bouldering.

Wanna name something?

posted Mar 11, 2015, 4:49 PM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Mar 11, 2015, 4:50 PM ]

Spim

If you are looking to try your hand at development, the Spim area is an easy place to start. Turn key development - a super short approach and the landings have been pre-manicured by CNS prez Mick Levin. Big holds and thin slab is the name of the game. Get creative. Check out the topo for GPS and photos.

Planet of the Apes

posted Nov 30, 2014, 6:58 AM by Dale Kahneman   [ updated Nov 30, 2014, 7:00 AM ]

Thanks to the collective efforts of some of Nova Scotia's most dedicated climbers, here is the first Mobeta update of Planet of The Apes. This really is just a taste of what this area holds, especially for creative and strong climbers who can push the boundaries. All grades are suggested, and will take repeats to reach consensus. 

Despite the impressive collection of problems already established, this really is just the beginning of what Sandy Cove has to offer. Enjoy, and all feedback is welcome!

Digby Neck - Sandy Cove


Requiem for a Dream

posted Sep 2, 2014, 3:13 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Sep 2, 2014, 6:34 PM by Dale Kahneman ]

Let me cut to the chase - the closing scene of the movie was two female heroine addicts that become prostitutes. The final scene has them back to back... double ass f***ing a black dildo while a bunch of Wall Streeters throw money at them

That movie f*ked me up. 

But a more intellectual take-on-it, by the famous film critics Roger & Ebert, is that these addicts are dreamers and lottery players that take it in the a** from reality.

Whatever dreams you had for TBay - they're now facing the harsh reality of an excavator so keep your underwear on.

Now you could whine your pretty little a**es off like Joni does. But one woman's parking lot is another woman's paradise. The way I see it -  that [excavator] is the sound of inevitability

What the Lord gives with right hand She takes away with the left hand. Don't cry for these boulders Nova Scotia. The surface for this planet is rock and water. We drink the water and climb the rocks. And the rocks are plentiful.



Before



After



Second Ascent of Carbosaurus

posted Aug 24, 2014, 5:39 PM by David Quinn

http://youtu.be/M4h0egZm-5Y

Smizzle's spring rampage continues with the second ascent of Scott Richardson's Carbosaurus V11. Originally a long term Smizzle project, Scott swooped in and snagged the FA in 2012. 

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