Female Beta: Blubber V7!

posted Oct 14, 2019, 7:48 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 14, 2019, 8:39 AM ]

I recently featured Blubber V7 on this blog saying: "Blubber is a rare treat in the land of small cruxy boulders. Hopefully with the topout demystified, the fate of this problem will be amenable to change."

Jen and Emily heeded the call and issued a definitive response to my challenge: hold our beer. My beta on blubber was closer to grizzly bear wrestling compared with the graceful movement the women have on display. But don't take my word for it, watch the videos!

Jen Walking up Blubber like it's part of the approach to Grover

Emily stying with a kneebar and a slick drop knee.

Second Ascent: No Conscience

posted Oct 13, 2019, 7:58 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 15, 2019, 4:34 PM ]

Grover is easily the highest concentration of quality climbing in Nova Scotia. Dozens of big boulders hosting unique problems with multiple moves, consistent difficulty, and defined holds. Basically the exact opposite of Prospect.

Based on the 20 years of lichen I scrubbed off, No Conscience V7 is another fantastic Grover line which is criminally under appreciated. 

Wonderful aesthetic and scale, technical face climbing on perfect holds, followed by an enjoyable low grade but high stakes topout guarenteed to make you feel something inside. So good. 

Apologies for the longish video on this one, conditions were aweful and the slab was damp and extra scary (Phill will be happy). Fuck climate change.

https://youtu.be/Nfd2AHEAZAE

God Told Me To Do It

posted Oct 9, 2019, 1:16 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 11, 2019, 3:30 AM ]

https://youtu.be/t9f1TW1o2mA

Over the years, Mobeta has been generous with the skull icon. Ghislain on the other hand was stingy with the R-rating in his guidebook. Black Tower V8 is one of those rare climbs, and took quite a while to get video beta for obvious reasons.


My wife (non-climber) got a look at Black Tower walking the dogs. I recieved this helpful motivational text in the middle of my session.

Injury Time

posted Oct 5, 2019, 12:30 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 5, 2019, 12:51 PM ]

A blog post isn't going to do Buckle Up V8 justice. This climb would get stars in a Heuco Tanks guidebook whereas many of our climbs wouldn't even be documented.  Pure face climbing and by far the hardest climb on the biggest holds of anything in Nova Scotia. This climb is unlike anything else on offer.


It blows my mind to think of Chris Eager doing the first ascent of this bold rig in 2002. This line is ALL CAPS BOLD. It would have been a full on jump for Chris, with old school pads, dirty holds and a terrible jagged landing (fixed now). In the immortal worlds of Eazy-E: Real Mother Fucking G.

https://youtu.be/tgCXyRXPIFk

With modern bouldering pads, and a pile of dead fall to even out the landing it's on the enjoyable side of scary. Don't let the fisheye fool you, this boulder is massive.

High Point

posted Oct 5, 2019, 12:30 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 5, 2019, 12:41 PM ]

Shotgun Willie V7 is easily the most stunningly aesthetic V7 on the mainland of Nova Scotia. A bold and perfectly geometric arete that even gives Exciter a run for it's money on sheer aesthetics. 

Don't let the appearent scale fool you - a fisheye lens was necessary to capture this giant boulder. The true scale is intimidating to say the least. Although the line is tall, the top jug is everything you hope and dream it would be, making the topout casual and secure. This line is a high point for V7 climbing in Nova Scotia.

https://youtu.be/NInD_RtPF_I
The casual topout moves on Shotgun Willie.

The Surgeon General

posted Oct 2, 2019, 2:04 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 2, 2019, 2:21 PM ]

Another mobeta topo is fully complete with Rob Grandy's send of The Surgeon General V10. More importantly, after 17 years, we finally some beta for this elusive pokemon. My only complaint is that Rob should at least make it look difficult, for the sake of the rest of our collective egos, because I can assure you that contrary to appearances - it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxgotJCAWkM

Clear Air Turbulence

posted Sep 29, 2019, 5:38 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Oct 2, 2019, 7:42 AM ]

After warming up with a first place qualifiers in Seven Bays The North Send 5 competition, New Brunswick's Sebastian Pacey-Smith headed out to Chebucto Head for a quick session before finals. 
An impressive flash go on Sagar's stout Fynnished V10 ended in disaster with a vicious hand cramp completely preventing Seb from opening his hand on the notoriously bold topout. A full 5 minutes elapsed before Seb could even straighten his fingers ending his session and preventing him from finishing the comp. Fynnished indeed.

https://youtu.be/zQjFOp5Wnbk
Seb attemping to bite his fingers open to topout Fynnished.

Second Ascent - The Grouch V8

posted Sep 26, 2019, 8:45 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Sep 26, 2019, 11:57 AM ]

Did you grow up watching Sesame Street and dream of crawling out of a dank hole like Oscar? That dream can become a reality with The Grouch V8 one of Nova Scotia's dankest boulder problems. 


Besides being dank in the Oxford dictionary sense, this problem is also dank in the Urban dictionary sense. 

 

Unique movement, and crazy holds including a savage finger stack lockoff, and a protuberant ball crimp.
 
https://youtu.be/G0EvL9qI4LA
Video of David Quinn on the second ascent of The Grouch V8

Fate Amenable To Change

posted Sep 23, 2019, 9:21 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Sep 23, 2019, 9:46 AM ]

When you want somebody to repeat your boulder problem, it's wise to name it after a greek god and give it 2 more v-points than it deserves. Double digits preferably. If you want your problem to be overlooked for decades, call it Blubber, sandbag it, and tell everyone it has a crux topout.

That's a shame, because Blubber V7 in Grover is a rare treat in the land of small cruxy boulders. This proud line is multiple moves of sustained difficulty requiring the full bouldering toolkit - heel hook, toe hook, slab smears, undercling, crimps, slopers, side pulls. As for the topout? The landing is good, and it's an extremely satisfying balancy rock over on double side pulls with only foot smears.

Hopefully with the topout demystified, the fate of this problem will be amenable to change.

https://youtu.be/EcFujEK8arM
Setting up for the rockover on Blubber V7

New Problems! Knee Supreme V2, Boomerang V1, Captain Crunch V1

posted Sep 20, 2019, 5:25 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Sep 20, 2019, 5:26 AM ]

The fall 2019 season is underway and there have been a bunch of new problems added by the community. 

Aedan Sheffar put up Knee Supreme V2 on it's very own boulder just off the highway near The Laundromat in the LOC. 

Start with left hand on arete and right hand on sloper. Only use sloper and crack on right face. To top of arete.

Up next is Boomerang V1 at Polly's Cove warm-up. Start on obvious ledge right of lower crack, and climb up side pulls into upper and lower crack.


Most recently Captain Crunch V1 was added to the Sandy Landing Area at Crystal Crescent Beach. Described as "a super crunchy sit start that cuts your fingers up like Captain Crunch does the foor of your mouth." Delicous. Be sure to check out the video below:

https://vimeo.com/360951981
Video of Tricha Dolmer on Captain Crunch V1

1-10 of 233