A Momentary Lapse Of Sanity

posted Jun 24, 2019, 12:15 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 24, 2019, 5:23 PM ]

16 years later, Creepy Crawler V8 has finally seen a second ascent. See blog post title for details. Zig is a legend. Respect.

https://youtu.be/VrXdB9P2TYQQuintessential Nova Scotia pebble wrestling on Creepy Crawler V8.

Bug Fix - Soleil Topo

posted Jun 22, 2019, 4:49 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 22, 2019, 4:49 AM ]

Thanks to the community member who reported an error on the LOC - Soleil topo which has been promptly fixed. 


Reporting errors, innaccuracies, or broken features is always appreciated and is very easy by filling out the simple form under the Contribute tab



Pride Comes Before A Fall

posted Jun 19, 2019, 1:18 PM by Site Admin

"We always want more, he thought, we always take our past successes for granted and assume
they but point the way to future triumphs. But the universe does not have our own best interests at heart, and to assume for a moment that it does, ever did or ever might is to make the most calamitous and hubristic of mistakes.”
― Iain M. Banks, Look to Windward

Tactical Grace

posted Jun 15, 2019, 11:51 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 17, 2019, 6:14 PM ]

Ben Smith's Blasting Cap V8 on Doghouse Boulder flies under the radar, but it actually checks all the boxes when it comes to an ideal project:

☑ Multiple consistent moves
☑ Skin friendly
☑ Interesting beta
☑ Ground workable
☑ Safe landing
☑ Low crux
☑ Pleasant approach

This problem is actually an ideal project in the V8 range compared to a lot of what is on offer in Nova Scotia. I suspect it get's over looked because of the cryptic hand sequence for the crux. There are endless combinations of how you could hold the unique quartz inclusion and it's very hard to tell which is correct. This send was a little desperate after a tiring search for the correct sequence amidst deteriorating conditions. 

https://youtu.be/apUH6csTPzs
Crux sequence on Blasting Cap V8

Community Submission: Embryo V3, Larva V5, Aqua Assault V7, Kamikaze V9

posted Jun 8, 2019, 6:27 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 10, 2019, 12:30 PM ]

Looks like quality problems, thanks for the submission!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o7iN6E7CuY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=79

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=133

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=200


Rubric Of Ruin

posted Jun 8, 2019, 12:06 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 9, 2019, 4:40 AM ]

Seaside boulder problems in Nova Scotia are ephemeral. They come and go at the pleasure of the North Atlantic. Whole areas have been swallowed by the ocean. Problems change over the years, usually for the worse. Ghislain's Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of those rare problems that may have actually improved.

https://youtu.be/gg5spNK7p8Q

Originally a cruxy V8 with a morpho start, Trouble in Paradise V5 has gotten much easier by a broken hold and is now beautifully consistent. 

NS climbers are so desperate for a tiny taste of roof climbing they bushwhack into the depths of Grover for a single move on Black Beast V5 or ravage their fingertips on the grotesquely sharp Hoofmaker V6 (more of a bulge than a roof). 

Now you can experience real roof climbing with a short approach and beautiful seaside aesthetic. Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of the **ONLY** true roof problem on the mainland! Hero moves on huge holds, multiple moves of true roof climbing, and consistent difficulty. This climb is fantastic! Now featuring a much more accessible difficulty.

Caution: The rockover topout is a jug haul, but is essentially a V2 freesolo. The orignal landing has washed into the ocean and is now impossible to pad and hard to spot.  Send or die.   Not a project for novice climbers.

The flake has dislodges exposing a beautiful mini jug

Unfortunate Conflict Of Evidence

posted Jun 4, 2019, 10:39 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 4, 2019, 12:37 PM ]

Chris Richardson's Intuition V7 on Mega Boulder began life in 2004 as a V9. It subsequenly received a double downgrade. I've learned to be very wary of the double downgrade. Anyone who's sacrified their tips on Heuco Tanks' notorious Better Eat Your Wheeties has internalized this lesson. 

In the end, it's definitely not V9, but I can say with absolute certainty that this will never be anyone's first V7. The name however is spot on - the beta sequence is very tricky with impossibly high feet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13i-sFSX8EI

Dramatic Exit

posted Jun 1, 2019, 10:35 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 1, 2019, 5:01 PM ]

In the market for a 20 foot highball slab with a bad landing and a crux topout? You'll want to check out Big Tuna V7 at Polly's Cove. I didn't want to take multiple attempts at the top to refine beta and make it pretty, so I exceuted on a classic plan: terror scuttle. 

The OGs who did this rig in 2003 with a blown out cordless pad are mythical creatures. Their ankles are the real heros.

https://youtu.be/ZRO-_CsnTXs
Opening move on Big Tuna, the serious business is another 10 feet up from here.

Chris Eager on Big Tuna circa 2003, Photo cred: Todd Foster

Size Isn't Everything

posted May 26, 2019, 8:17 AM by Site Admin   [ updated May 26, 2019, 8:21 AM ]

Seb and Krista were in town for the Seven Bays competition, and we made the best of gruesome bouldering condiditons with a fun seaside circuit at the Twin Sisters. Krista walked up the classic Tough Sailors V6 and we captured a nice video to help similarily sized climbers scoop her excellent beta. 

Size isn't everything, but when it comes to rock climbing, it counts for an aweful lot. Compression is the most inherently morpho of all styles, and we captured a fun side-by-side beta clip that illustrates that point beautifully. The wire frame helps highlight the biomechanical differences:


Krista is compressing with straight arms with muscles of scapular retraction and horizontal shoulder adduction. For taller climbers to create the same compression, they need to shorten the space between their hands with biceps and posterior shoulder. Krista uses paraspinous muslces to arch her back in extension, while taller climbers do exactly the opposite with abdominal muslces to achieve spinal flexion in order to close the distance between their hands and feet. 

The same move is fundamentally different from a biomechanics point of view! Check out the video for the full side by side, and to steal Krista's silky beta!

Flexible Demeanour

posted May 20, 2019, 12:03 PM by Mick Levin

It's been a big season of Pokemon catching at Mobeta, with yet another formally unrepeated Ghislain problem captured on video this weekend. Bring The Pain (V8) at Satellite might be as quintessentially a Nova Scotian slopey topout as you can get. Thanks to Zig for his vision and to Dr. Quinn for cracking the beta on this rig... which I did not admit to myself until I had tried several other methods unsuccessfully. While this problem is perhaps not likely to draw crowds, it climbs quite well and really does test a specific skill set needed for many other granite blocs elsewhere. 

https://youtu.be/NzflTf9i3AQ

Bring The Pain is named for an awful tiny crystal that Zig used for his left hand. To avoid having to touch that nastiness, I employed a technique I like to use known as the "Poltergeist". Poltergeisting is where you rotate your palms so your fingers point down to give you more skin on the rock during a desperate mantle. If done correctly, it looks like your arms are twisting around in their sockets as though possessed by a demon - but as you can see it's pretty effective. 


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