Exciter Sit-Down-Start

posted Aug 14, 2019, 3:45 PM by Rob Grandy   [ updated Aug 14, 2019, 4:26 PM by Site Admin ]

There are plenty of good reasons why Exciter V7 is the most photographed boulder problem in the province
It has everything you could ask for:
  • Powerful compression
  • Technical footwork
  • Perfect holds
  • One-of-a-kind oceanside aesthetics
  • Crux highstep that upsets tall people
  • Decent landing
  • Thoughtful top out sequence
  • Morning shade

Chris Walker put down his nemesis project Exciter Sit V10 this weekend, and was kind enough to repeat it on camera. He’s been on a hot streak of hard boulders this year and he has no plans of slowing down (although he’s probably too polite to spray at you). 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7J9tOIQ44U

P.S. In case you were wondering, Exciter is named after Depeche Mode’s 10th studio album, not the 80’s Speed Metal band from Ottawa of the same name. This sort of trivia is very important to me.

Control Surface

posted Aug 14, 2019, 6:46 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Aug 14, 2019, 6:58 AM ]

Sebastian took advantage of the cool August air during the 2019 UNB club trip with an authoratitive send of Losier's aptly named Stone Slinger V10 - one of Nova Scotia's most powerful boulders.

Stone Slinger is essentially Bull Dog V6 turned up to 11 with 2 distinct cruxes - controlling the swing, and the massive move to the lip. Seb unlocked some slick new beta which will definitely help any aspiring stone slingers.

The only question I'm left with is what fell out of the hole at 0:15 in the video???

https://youtu.be/8eGO0QfDjqs
Video of Seb's impressive send of Stone Slinger V10

Of Course I Still Love You

posted Aug 11, 2019, 1:46 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Aug 11, 2019, 5:09 PM ]

When I first asked Ben to show me Nate's Cave Problem V8 on Dover Island he refused saying that Nate brought shame on the Smizzle family with this horrific butt dragger. 

Honesly it wasn't that bad. The opening moves were downright pleasant... until things took a sharp turn for the desperate. Why not do the natural exit up the dihedral? That's showbiz baby.

https://youtu.be/wmuqoZek48Y
Bert Grandy crusing the crux on Nate's Cave Problem.

A Momentary Lapse Of Sanity

posted Jun 24, 2019, 12:15 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 24, 2019, 5:23 PM ]

16 years later, Creepy Crawler V8 has finally seen a second ascent. See blog post title for details. Zig is a legend. Respect.

https://youtu.be/VrXdB9P2TYQQuintessential Nova Scotia pebble wrestling on Creepy Crawler V8.

Bug Fix - Soleil Topo

posted Jun 22, 2019, 4:49 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 22, 2019, 4:49 AM ]

Thanks to the community member who reported an error on the LOC - Soleil topo which has been promptly fixed. 


Reporting errors, innaccuracies, or broken features is always appreciated and is very easy by filling out the simple form under the Contribute tab



Pride Comes Before A Fall

posted Jun 19, 2019, 1:18 PM by Site Admin

"We always want more, he thought, we always take our past successes for granted and assume
they but point the way to future triumphs. But the universe does not have our own best interests at heart, and to assume for a moment that it does, ever did or ever might is to make the most calamitous and hubristic of mistakes.”
― Iain M. Banks, Look to Windward

Tactical Grace

posted Jun 15, 2019, 11:51 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 17, 2019, 6:14 PM ]

Ben Smith's Blasting Cap V8 on Doghouse Boulder flies under the radar, but it actually checks all the boxes when it comes to an ideal project:

☑ Multiple consistent moves
☑ Skin friendly
☑ Interesting beta
☑ Ground workable
☑ Safe landing
☑ Low crux
☑ Pleasant approach

This problem is actually an ideal project in the V8 range compared to a lot of what is on offer in Nova Scotia. I suspect it get's over looked because of the cryptic hand sequence for the crux. There are endless combinations of how you could hold the unique quartz inclusion and it's very hard to tell which is correct. This send was a little desperate after a tiring search for the correct sequence amidst deteriorating conditions. 

https://youtu.be/apUH6csTPzs
Crux sequence on Blasting Cap V8

Community Submission: Embryo V3, Larva V5, Aqua Assault V7, Kamikaze V9

posted Jun 8, 2019, 6:27 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 10, 2019, 12:30 PM ]

Looks like quality problems, thanks for the submission!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o7iN6E7CuY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=79

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=133

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C21wS7BNf9w&feature=youtu.be&t=200


Rubric Of Ruin

posted Jun 8, 2019, 12:06 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 9, 2019, 4:40 AM ]

Seaside boulder problems in Nova Scotia are ephemeral. They come and go at the pleasure of the North Atlantic. Whole areas have been swallowed by the ocean. Problems change over the years, usually for the worse. Ghislain's Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of those rare problems that may have actually improved.

https://youtu.be/gg5spNK7p8Q

Originally a cruxy V8 with a morpho start, Trouble in Paradise V5 has gotten much easier by a broken hold and is now beautifully consistent. 

NS climbers are so desperate for a tiny taste of roof climbing they bushwhack into the depths of Grover for a single move on Black Beast V5 or ravage their fingertips on the grotesquely sharp Hoofmaker V6 (more of a bulge than a roof). 

Now you can experience real roof climbing with a short approach and beautiful seaside aesthetic. Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of the **ONLY** true roof problem on the mainland! Hero moves on huge holds, multiple moves of true roof climbing, and consistent difficulty. This climb is fantastic! Now featuring a much more accessible difficulty.

Caution: The rockover topout is a jug haul, but is essentially a V2 freesolo. The orignal landing has washed into the ocean and is now impossible to pad and hard to spot.  Send or die.   Not a project for novice climbers.

The flake has dislodges exposing a beautiful mini jug

Unfortunate Conflict Of Evidence

posted Jun 4, 2019, 10:39 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Jun 4, 2019, 12:37 PM ]

Chris Richardson's Intuition V7 on Mega Boulder began life in 2004 as a V9. It subsequenly received a double downgrade. I've learned to be very wary of the double downgrade. Anyone who's sacrified their tips on Heuco Tanks' notorious Better Eat Your Wheeties has internalized this lesson. 

In the end, it's definitely not V9, but I can say with absolute certainty that this will never be anyone's first V7. The name however is spot on - the beta sequence is very tricky with impossibly high feet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13i-sFSX8EI

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