Big Sexy Beast

posted Aug 13, 2018, 3:34 PM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Aug 13, 2018, 3:39 PM ]

Since the discovery of the static beta, Blacksmith Dyno V9 gets very few suitors. Seb makes it look easy on repeat for the camera under a hot midday sun! Impressive!

New Blocs on Dover!

posted Aug 9, 2018, 10:55 AM by Rob Grandy   [ updated Aug 9, 2018, 2:57 PM ]

The ocean giveth, the ocean taketh away...

Normally when boulders on Dover Island get shifted around by the ocean, there's a net-loss for climbers:

Figure 1. The One Scoop Boulder is somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean right now,
leaving page 27 of Halifax Bouldering mostly useless...
(Photo stolen from Zig's Blog)

This winter, however, there have been some new additions to the island. Some of the talus below a roof before the Solarium Area washed away, opening up:

Figure 2. The Gift wall. We're sure some of these lines may have 
been climbed before, but lower starts have opened up and the landings
are now friendly enough that they've become actually pleasant to climb.
Figure 3. The Junebug Boulder is a new addition between The Gift and the ocean,
hosting various 50+ foot traverses. It's a great spot for beginners, or to warm up!

So far, the only lines that have been climbed are:
  • Dan Jolivet's jug/sloper fest Low Hanging Fruit V2 
  • Ian Whitehead's absurd inverted offwidth Two Deep V4
  • and various traverses on the lower Junebug Boulder 
But there are plenty of new projects to be done!

A giant boulder slid out from under a roof at the end of The Wave area, opening up 2 new lines along with a few new projects.
Climbing the left arete of the boulder itself is a dandy V3 called Kilogram

Figure 4. This one was really popular at Boulderfest this year. 
Unintimidating V3 climbing with provocative moves.

The plumb-line on the roof is a new V5 called Witness Protection

It's not an exaggeration to say that this could likely become one of the most popular classics on Dover. With it's moderate-difficulty gymnastic roof climbing, this line fills the gap left by the now less-than-classic  Orangutang...
Figure 5. Originally thought to be a flash FA by Rob Grandy. 
Turned out that Smizzle had done it a couple weeks ago.  Life is rough sometimes...
Photos by Alex Maclean

Climb them now before they're gone....

Just Read The Instructions

posted Aug 5, 2018, 4:14 PM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Aug 6, 2018, 5:50 PM ]

I went out to Eggs today to clean up a few of the missing videos. Specifically, I was hoping to find The Runaround V8. Unfortunately, there was no picture included in the original topo, so all I had to go on was the description:

Hard start from small crimps to top.

I circled around the boulder, found the most obvious small crimps, and climbed to the top. Trouble is - I left with my fingertips intact. When G-Money mixes "hard start" "small crimps" and "V8" together, I'm expecting fingertip amputating seriousness. 

I ended up with an accidental first ascent which I'm calling Just Read the Instructions V4. It's a pretty obvious line, and cements Eggs the highest concentration of V3 - V5 lines in mainland Nova Scotia. 

The The Runaround V8 remains a mystery...

Beat the Heat in Digby

posted Jul 26, 2018, 5:20 AM by Mick Levin   [ updated Jul 26, 2018, 5:21 AM ]

Cunnies have been poor lately in HRM, with temps in the high 20s, humidity approaching 100%, and frix in the single digits. This weekend the heat remains and it's going to rain in the LOC and TBay. What's a desperate pebble wrestler to do? If only there were a coastal, breezy area with big holds and shady overhangs in Nova Scotia.... 

Jump in the whip and head to Sandy Cove! It's well worth the trip, especially in the hot weather. In addition to the amazing and unique boulders, Digby Neck also offers full-amenity camping at Whale Cove Campground just around the corner, great swimming at Midway Lake down the road, Trout Cove sport climbing a few minutes away, and lots of opportunities for marine mammal spotting in the Bay of Fundy.
Sandy Cove problems are generally skin-friendly too, with lots of features. Maybe the best area in the province for new climbers, it also offers must-do moderates including Rob Grandy's Operation Bronze God (v5) and Chris Richardson's No Pressure (v4), as well as harder lines like Zig's Stick to Your Guns (v7), Paul Denzler's Unicorn's First Blood (V8), and Taylor Gilgour's Devil's Playground (V11). There's open projects too! Check out the topo for new video beta.

Inbangyang @ Terrance Bay - Beta Breakdown!

posted Jul 21, 2018, 9:08 AM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Jul 21, 2018, 9:15 AM ]

For today's beta breakdown I am going to take a look at Inbangyang. This is a punchy little classic that has a surprising amount of nuance. If you try to climb this problem using brute force, expect to pay a heavy price in skin. Blunt arete climbing is all about the holds, so we’ll be taking a close look.

Vision Quest

posted Jul 17, 2018, 8:45 AM by Mick Levin   [ updated Jul 17, 2018, 10:56 AM ]

Even the most popular bouldering areas often have enormous potential for new lines - you just have to look. Musth SDS (V5) at Corn boulder is a great example of an excellent and obvious line hiding in plain sight.

With guidebooks and websites like Mobeta, it can be easy to get caught up in the idea that there are only certain climbs with certain holds. Sure, some climbs are eliminates, but let's not forget that bouldering is filled with contrivances. On the other hand, some problems that might look lame to the untrained eye actually climb amazingly well. You won't know until you try.

Credit: Pusher Holds
Stoke is contagious. Eschew the haters. The best climber is the one having the most fun*.
*It follows therefore that Adam Ondra is currently having the most fun.

Awkward Customer

posted Jul 16, 2018, 10:31 AM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Jul 16, 2018, 10:33 AM ]

It's not about picking the right climb. It's about picking the right climb for you. Smokey and the Bandit V8 on Dover island is the ideal project if you are under 5'2 and can hold a perfect front lever for 20 seconds. 

If you are 6'2 and can hold a front lever for 0 seconds, awkwardness guaranteed. Trad climbers are going to feel at home on this one, and it's great fun to watch your bouldering friends flail like a newborn baby deer. Complete with birthing simulation.

Experiencing A Significant Gravitas Shortfall

posted Jul 7, 2018, 8:11 PM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Jul 8, 2018, 8:35 AM ]

It's that time of the year again: Tsunami Area is the most popular topo on Mobeta as climbers flock to the ocean to escape the heat. Now that Ziggy Stardust V7 has been destroyed by the ocean, there is quite a large difficulty gap between Tall Guy V4 and Tsunami V8/9. 

Ben Smith and David Quinn were playing around and came up with a solution to this problem: tandem climbing! Team up with a partner and do the traverse relay style. Tag your partner in at the rest. Do each section, forwards, backwards or both!

Later in the session, Quinn went on to snag the second ascent of Ben Smith's Imanust V9. Ben sent Imanust in 2006 which turns out to be another fantastic overlooked gem, reminding us to have fun and not take climbing too seriously. Very little gravitas indeed.

Use of Weapons

posted Jul 7, 2018, 11:03 AM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Jul 7, 2018, 11:07 AM ]

At age 17, Sonnie Trotter was the first Canadian to climb 5.14c. He has enjoyed a long and distinguished career in professional climbing ever since. 

In 2002 he established Squamish test peice Superman 5.14c. That same year, he visited Nova Scotia and established several hard boulder problems, including Bloody Arete V8 on Dover Island.

Bloody Arete is a hard desperate line that involves a double meat hook on a razor sharp arete. Hard. Sharp. Powerful. Crux start. Single move. Very seldom repeated for obvious reasons, but an impressive ascent.

Without any known beta, Sebastian Pacey-Smith defaulted to his strengths: meat hooked the arete, and busted out the most savage dyno imaginable. To fully appreciate the savagery of this beta - imagine meat hooking a pile of broken glass and than simultanously contracting every muscle fiber in your lat, bicep and deltoid... if they were as thick as your leg.

If you pay attention to the left corner of the screen, you can see Ben Smith strapping on a kneebar pad. Ben has different ideas for the beta... Stay tuned.


posted Jul 5, 2018, 4:06 PM by Diziet Sma   [ updated Jul 8, 2018, 6:25 AM ]

Taylor Kilgour adds another first ascent DDay V9 to the growing list of hard climbing at Battery Cove. Check out the video below.

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