Camero Crash Helmet - Second Ascent!

posted Dec 4, 2019, 1:19 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Dec 4, 2019, 1:25 PM ]

After witnessing Falco Filotto's impressive first place win at SBB's Tour De Bloc 17 it doesn't come as a surprise he managed effortless sends of Nova Scotia's 2 most comp-like boulder problems. Camero Crash Helmet and Man of Action are both difficult, cryptic, and often tried but seldom repeated. 

Falco's beta is super slick and video of these elusive rigs is guarenteed to open them up to wider enjoyment! Special thanks to Phill Craik for spotting these gaps in Mobeta and capturing video beta for these elusive pokemon.

https://youtu.be/pdHflFVD_ns

https://youtu.be/S4HJMgjkaWQ

Stone Slinger V10 - First Female Ascent

posted Dec 2, 2019, 11:29 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Dec 4, 2019, 1:30 PM ]

Congratulations Jen on sending Stone Slinger. Jen continues to setting the standard for hard outdoor climbing. Impressive!

https://youtu.be/b82mVjoP4Xs

Hard Pushed V10 - Second Ascent

posted Nov 22, 2019, 2:43 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 22, 2019, 5:38 PM ]

In 2012, Ben Smith corrected past indiscretions with the true first ascent of Hard Pushed V10 - an obvious stand start. 

Jump starts are inherently controversial and should only be done as a last resort. I went out to snag a video of the original start to Pushed V9 for Mobeta, but to make matters worse, I could reach the jump start from the ground! Short climbers have to jump, while tall climbers enjoy a silly advantage.

Hard Pushed is much better since the start is equally accessible to climbers of all sizes and it retains the shoulder destroying spirit of the first move for everyone to enjoy. I'm not going to upload my video for Pushed since it's a climb that should never have existed and should just fade away.

https://youtu.be/lXBA_h8yRjI

OK Boomer

posted Nov 21, 2019, 3:17 AM by David Quinn


On the heels of Reel Rock, here's a little perspective offering. In 1993 the first free ascent of the Nose was done and the grade determined to be 5.13/5.14. It took Lynn Hill 4 days; 8 years later, Tommy Caldwell did it in 12 hours. No one has suggested changing the grade despite the numerous ascents since Lynn's first ascent. And despite the speed ascent in under 2 hours. We still remember and respect Lynn Hill for doing something no one else had been able to do. Remember 5.14 was cutting edge sport climbing in 1993. Somehow in NS and particularly with Mobeta, there is this idea to keep the grades moving. When many first ascents in NS were done in early 2000, those problems were at a cutting edge level with a few routes to compare and consider grades And few folks climbing at that level to discuss what a realistic grade rating. There is a mental game to doing what hasn't been done before that makes things harder and usually take longer, variables that first ascentionists use to determine difficulty. In my opinion, there should be respect for the first ascentionist and history rather than moving grades at all. Who does it harm to NOT change grades? No one. I will even go so far as to suggest perhaps these new grades are appropriate for those who don't have to figure out moves because they are sprayed with beta or watch the video over and over. There is a reason competitions put competitors in isolation. I wonder how folks would grade things if there was no beta spray?

Deeper Understanding.

posted Nov 17, 2019, 5:15 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 18, 2019, 7:04 AM ]

If La Mer A Boire V10 and Un Modele Du Mal V8 had a baby, the result whould be Deeper Understanding V9. Nobody is going to like it on instragram and if your mom sees it she'll cry. It's painful, ugly, and unpleasant from start to finish - like many aspects of life. Exploring the nuances of razor blades as they shave off your fingers on a 4 foot tall lip traverse is guarenteed to lead to a deeper understanding.

https://youtu.be/XueNx6SB2CI

La Mer A Boire V10!

posted Nov 11, 2019, 8:05 AM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 11, 2019, 11:36 AM ]

Seb has some experience with hard dynos putting down classic Heuco Tanks dyno's Scream V10, Free Willy V10, Flight of the Thick Bird V10 (FA), and Li V13 in less than a handful of tries each. So when it required a handful of sessions to put down Ghislain's La Mer A Boire, you know that's some serious business. 

Orignally a V8 sandbag, we suspect Ghislain made a mistake translating from the font grades since it's closer to 8A than V8. It has resisted all attempts at a repeat for the last 10 years. Imagine compressing all the difficulty of Kleos V10 into a single move and you are approaching something resembling La Mer A Boire. This thing is going to see far fewer ascents than Kleos over the coming years, so deserves at least grade parity. 

Props to Seb for the impressive send and Ghislain for putting up such a visionary line!

https://youtu.be/cGAQahHcwWQ

Phase VIII V11

posted Nov 10, 2019, 7:10 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 10, 2019, 7:16 PM ]

Sebastian Pacey-Smith was kind enough to demonstrate beta for video with an impressively smooth repeat send of Nick Sagar's testpeice Phase VIII V11. The slopers on this beauty are finally feeling good with proper temps. Easily one of the best in Nova Scotia, but only possible for a short window very late into the season.

https://youtu.be/MoFL9NRmquo

Access (No Longer) Denied

posted Nov 10, 2019, 6:54 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 11, 2019, 11:37 AM ]

Like modern comp climbing, Access Denied V9 is made specifically for little people. It has become more morpho over time with successive breakage of the crux foot hold. New beta elminates all the nasty scrunchfest and is accessible to climbers of all heights. Still hard though - the scrunchfest is replaced by a sustained one arm lockoff on a half pad crimp - but much more pleasant. Now you can enjoy it with friends of all sizes!

https://youtu.be/gs_cgd4sBXE

Trade Surplus

posted Nov 4, 2019, 2:16 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 4, 2019, 2:24 PM ]

Pinch of Salt V7 is an unassuming little line that was a lot of fun. Like New Brunswick, people tend to travel right past it, but it has a lot to offer if you stop and expore. 

So many fun experiences hidden deep in the Nova Scotia bouldering catalouge.

https://youtu.be/7egrHSGK8W0

Credibility Problem

posted Nov 2, 2019, 4:29 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Nov 4, 2019, 2:37 PM ]

Nearly ever single Nick Sagar line has been downgraded over the years. Two grades on average, but ocassionally 3. As a guidebook author, this has been very frusturating since fixing this massive inconsistency results in bruised egos and community backlash when people's accomplishments get impacted.

This is in stark contrast to Zig's testpeices which have stood the test of time (and then some). Compared to the most recent Zig V9 I've done (Dilemma)Mr. Sanders V9 V6 is an Acorn StairliftTM. Hell, forget V9, it's true compared to the most recent Zig V7 (Dirty Job). I onsighted Mr. Sanders and then ran laps with different variations trying to make it remotely difficult. Nope, just another Sagar tripple downgrade.

I have the utmost respect for Nick's incredible vision as a developer and priceless contribution to the Nova Scotia bouldering, but his grading standard was fucked.

https://youtu.be/Og9hjzF4MHQ

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