Cian's Echo V11 - Second Ascent

posted Jan 13, 2020, 12:16 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jan 14, 2020, 11:26 AM ]

In August 2018 I wrote "when G-Money mixes "hard start" "small crimps" and "V8" together, I'm expecting fingertip amputating seriousness.

Fingertip amputating seriousness is not a metaphor. Zig's crimp lines at V8 are savage, but at V11 it becomes pure sadism. Cian's Echo V11 is named for the screams that would echo through the valley while Zig was working this project in 2001. This line is aesthetic as it is painful. In Zig's own words "6 moves on brutal fingertip crimps." Brutal indeed. Major props for putting up this incredible line!

I included a little edit at the end of this video, and I think you can appreciate a slightly wet sounding pop as my fingertip exploded. I gave up some dignity on the icy topout - I just wanted the pain to be over.

You Would If You Really Loved Me

posted Jan 6, 2020, 5:40 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jan 7, 2020, 2:56 AM ]

What do you do when it's your good friend's last day in Halifax and mother nature takes a big white shit on your climbing plans? What if this friend is Nova Scotia's best outdoor rock climber?

Grab a headlamp, broom, rope and head out into the storm and scrub that big slippery bitch!

The hard work payed off with back-to-back sends of Ghislain's unrepeated Transitions V10. The portal is open as Abel would say. 

Two completely different betas on this tricky climb. I opted for the direct approach: a hard dynamic move off an impossibly high foot to an impossibly subtle sloper. Ben used a slick knee bar to crack the opening sequence with a fully static reach!
Ben locking in the kneebar
Quinn going dynamically for the lip

Ben didn't stop there, and very nearly took down the sit start project in a single session! Multiple heart breaking send goes linking past the crux - as close as you could possibly get without sending. 2020 is off to a good start!

Warm, Considering

posted Jan 3, 2020, 3:05 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Jan 3, 2020, 5:45 PM ]

Climate change is slowly turning Nova Scotia into Dagobah. Another heinous wet day, another obscure desperate boulder problem. Eskimo Games SDS V7 was surprisingly enjoyable, but struggling up wet boulders in January is unpleasant to say the least.

2019 Year in Review

posted Dec 31, 2019, 11:43 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Dec 31, 2019, 12:23 PM ]

Climbing continues to explode in popularity in Halifax, fuelled by the massive popularity of SBB, a trend we can expect to continue in 2020 with 2 new gyms. The community growth was reflected in Mobeta users up 28.6% and sessions up 56.46% over 2018. More climbers getting outside more often!

+28.6% Unique Users
+56.46% Sessions

Our friends from across Canada come overwhelmingly from Montreal (10.84% of site traffic), with Toronto and Calgary a distant 2nd and 3rd. I'm pretty sure Calgary is all Zig pressing F5.

1. Montreal
2. Toronto
3. Calgary

The most popular climbing areas this year were Dover, Polly's Cove and Area 51. Dover has been number 1 for several consecutive years. Polly's Cove is a sign of a vibrant growing community since it's very popular with new climbers. The big surprise here was a +383.77% increase in the popularity of Area 51, fuelled by the first female ascent of Kleos V9. Corn and bung was pushed out of the top 3 for the first time in Mobeta history!

1. Dover
2. Polly's Cove
3. Area 51

In terms of content, 2019 was the biggest year in the history of Mobeta. Staying true to our mantra that "low grades matter", 178 new beta videos ≤V6 were added to the site. Hard lines got their share of love with 44 new videos V7 and above.

178 videos under V6
44 videos V7 and above
= 222 new videos!

Besides climbing and filming >200 boulder problems in high quality and overhauling the majority of topos with much better images, my personal project for 2019 has been rescuing climbs from obscurity. I did at least 10 second ascents V7 and too many 3rd ascents to bother counting. Many of these obscure problems have been unrepeated for nearly 2 decades! On the ultra obscure front, I scrubbed and sent the Big 4 in Grover demystified those elusive beauties. Grover is the 56th most popular topo, so everything is obscure by default. Scary, dirty, unrepeated highballs especially so. The community added 5 new boulder problems ≥ V7, a number I expect will only increase moving forward.

5 First Ascents (≥ V7)
>13 Second Ascents (≥ V7)

2019 was a fantastic year, but the best is yet to come. Happy new years! Onwards and upwards!

The Fine Line Project

posted Dec 30, 2019, 8:25 AM by admin

All you have is your fire
And the place you need to reach
Don't you ever tame your demons
Always keep them on a leash

Three Fathoms Deep V7 - First Ascent

posted Dec 26, 2019, 3:06 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Dec 28, 2019, 5:50 PM ]

You can't miss this giant boulder poking out from the trees. It's resisted attempts by Halifax's strongest climbers over the years including Zig, Blakney and Smizzle. This big beauty has finally been tamed by Adam Benjamin who snagged the first ascent on the long standing Musquodoboit roadside project. Adam shared some beta:

"Stand start with left hand on crimp right hand on arete, work your way up Arete or dyno to ledge, continue up Arete to slopping holds move left to undercling jug."

Congrats on the send!

Masked Man V8 - Second Ascent

posted Dec 24, 2019, 10:17 AM by Site Admin

Ghislain's 2002 Masked Man V8 is pure old school goodness, or as the OGs called it: New Age.

Higher quality than Skills Inventory V8, more sandbagged than Stars Attack V8, and more committing than Black Tower V8
Sticking the dynamic cross on Masked Man

While I was in the area, I added another line Floating Fortress V7 which features a dope bicycle on a steep overhang! A rare movement in Nova Scotia.
Rare Nova Scotia Bicycle on Floating Fortress

Goodbye Molly.

posted Dec 19, 2019, 6:10 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Dec 20, 2019, 3:37 AM ]

In the words of Louis C.K., bringing home a puppy is a "countdown to sorrow." 

I said goodbye to my friend and steadfast climbing partner of 10 years today. She will be missed dearly. I love you Molly.

The Runaround V8 - Second Ascent

posted Dec 19, 2019, 6:09 PM by Site Admin

I used to wander through the LOC looking at boulders in the distance dreaming of untapped potential. That was until I saw Ghislain's The Runaround V8. Like my parents telling me there is no Santa Clause, I realised that Zig climbed every square inch of climbable granite in a 500km radius. 

In homage to Zig's  dedication, I put up a slightly easier line beside The Runaround called Henhouse Syndrome V7.
The Runaround V8
Henhouse Syndrome V7

Smizzle goes Hollywood

posted Dec 13, 2019, 2:25 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Dec 13, 2019, 2:32 PM ]

Our legendary guide Abel Harding in Heuco Tanks used the term Hollywood for feet first roof climbing. Ben's very first day back from L.A. and he's showing off his hollywood style cracking the crux on his latest project. A stunning V13 roof with holds and movement straight out of a 5-star Bishop or Squamish cave. If this thing goes, it'll be a strong contender for Nova Scotia's Canada's best boulder problem.

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