Premature Enlightenment.

posted Apr 17, 2019, 2:38 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Apr 17, 2019, 5:52 PM ]

What is this?


Un Model Du Mal has more beta and pain per square meter than any rock climb in Nova Scotia.

This is Un Modele Du Mal V8. It will hurt more than your fingers have ever been hurt and you will have a scar. When you pull on the start holds try not to think of the words "searing" or "flesh."

Before you can send Un Modele Du Mal, first you have to give up. First you have to know, not fear, know that some day you’re gonna die.

This is your pain, this is your burning hand. It’s right here! What you’re feeling is premature enlightenment.

First New FA of 2019 - Trap House V9

posted Apr 14, 2019, 5:51 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Apr 14, 2019, 6:21 PM ]

A month into the 2019 season, Seb is lighting it up with an impressive new FA in a very unlikely location.

Dog house is a very old boulder in the LOC. In fact, Ghislain named his impressive dyno Full House in 2002 to mark the completion of lines on this boulder. Sadly, Full House suffered a broken hold, and is no longer possible. However, it turns out it wasn't quite a full house... 

Amazingly, Sebastian Pacey-Smith spotted an untouched line and added an incredible new dyno Trap House V9 in just a few tries!

https://youtu.be/mZtB7Z3WFPU
Sebastian sticking the crux dyno on the first ascent of Trap House V9

Quietly Confident

posted Apr 2, 2019, 11:20 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Apr 2, 2019, 4:10 PM ]

Mobeta first covered Jen Wright's impressive bouldering in November 2011 with the title: Who is this girl? We wrote: "Jen shows everyone the difference between cranking and climbing."

Lately, Jen is showing us there is no difference between cranking and climbing. Jen has been doing both with quick acents of Skills Inventory, Stars Attack, and Resurrection. The answer to our original question: one of Nova Scotia's top boulderers.

Jen made climbing history this week with the first female ascent of Kleos.

Kleos (Greek: κλέος) is the Greek word often translated to "renown", or "glory". It is related to the word "to hear" and carries the implied meaning of "what others hear about you". A Greek hero earns kleos through accomplishing great deeds.

Kleos indeed.

https://youtu.be/0v7rY-28G6Q
Video of Jen crushing with that retro "Dad's handicam" feel.

Reminder: Tbay woods is still closed.

posted Apr 1, 2019, 5:16 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Apr 1, 2019, 5:27 PM ]

Tbay woods is closed and that isn't changing anytime soon. This site is for informational purposes only and access is never implied, but the topo has been removed as a courtesy to prevent climbers from accidentally triggering the landownders. Access is a gift.

Bad News For Happy People

posted Mar 24, 2019, 2:37 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Mar 29, 2019, 9:42 AM ]

Established by Ghislain in 2004, Bad News For Happy People V8 is the proudest line on Memorial boulder and has stood unrepeated since the FA. Rob Grandy snagged the 2nd ascent on the opening day of 2019 outdoor season! The portal is open. 

The line is technical, consistent and commiting on an aesthetic overhanging arete. Excellent project material. The line was established as a sit, but for 7 points the stand is more consistent and workable and stellar in it's own right.

Rob sticking the committing deadpoint

Tour De Bloc 16 - Round Two

posted Mar 19, 2019, 2:07 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Mar 19, 2019, 2:08 PM ]

We usually stick to covering outdoor climbing here on Mobeta, but Seven Bays just dropped their latest comp highlight reel, and it is awesomeness in action. While we wait out the last few days of winter, go check it out on Paul Denzler's youtube right now:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Y2KKQnT8hE&t=9s

Stranger Here Myself

posted Jan 27, 2019, 9:10 AM by admin

 Sebastian Pacey- Smith is off too an impressive start representing Eastern Canada's strong climbers in Heuco with a quick send of Li V13. A massive hand flip to undercling dyno played to Sebs strengths. Check out the video!


Anticipation Of A New Lover's Arrival, The

posted Nov 28, 2018, 7:14 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Nov 28, 2018, 7:24 AM ]

TL;DR - Video of Seb crushing 2 hard lines in the rain at the bottom.

The lake boulders in Grover were the first area developed by Ghislain et al. early in the golden ear of Nova Scotia Bouldering. The original trail walked around the north shore of Quarry Lake and then bushwhacked dense brush down a 50-meter cliff.  It's amazing how the order of development is seemingly bizarre now that we have GPS, and manicured trails. They walked 5 km through harsh bush past all the boulders in Grover to these very obscure remote boulders. I assume the early explorers saw these massive boulders from Terrence Bay Road across the water and set out overland to find them.

To truly appreciate how impressive these early developers were, I recommend you hike out to the lake boulders using only the original "map" provided in the Terrence bay bouldering guide (photoshopped onto the corresponding satellite image):  

Can you spot the lake boulders on this satellite image?
The first line developed was Vice Grip V8 (FA Ghislain Losier 2001). Like all Losier single move V8's, unless you have Zig's exact skill set, you'll want to be flashing V10 before trying this rig. This line is an impressive feat of strength. The usual beta: grip as hard as you can, close your eyes, and think of England.  

Supposedly a photo of Dave Kirby on the start holds of Alien Workshop. Smartphones weren't a thing.

Another year would go by before young Ben Blakney would put down the hardest and best line Alien Workshop V9 (FA Ben Blakney 2002). Truly an impressive bloc. Tonnes of intricate beta, comfortable large holds, and powerful back and shoulder climbing. Aka Ben Blakney's wheelshouse. 

17 years later it's a different world.  Drones, Satellites, GPS, and online guidebooks have replaced hand-drawn trail maps. Clean boulders, manicured trails, and giant pads make access easy. If you're feeling up to it, head out to the Lake Boulders and test yourself against Nova Scotia bouldering history. The Boulders await in silent anticipation of a new lover's arrival.

https://youtu.be/IcKZwY4fStQ
Sebastien Pacey-Smith sending Vice Grip V8

https://youtu.be/SIpZuUklPmA
Sebastien Pacey-Smith on the crux of Alien Workshop V9

Determinist

posted Nov 24, 2018, 3:28 PM by Site Admin   [ updated Nov 24, 2018, 4:47 PM ]

In a deterministic universe, the outcome of bouldering problems would be beyond influence. Maybe that's the ultimate question: 

"The motivation towards this problem changed with time into various forms.

When I was facing the problem, many feelings intertwined but in the end, I was saved by pure curiosity to seek and answer to the riddle - if I am able to climb the problem or not."

Dai Koyamada 2012

Ben has been working tirelessly on The Bully Wall Project. Without a doubt the most stunning piece of granite in Nova Scotia. Deterministic or not, I'm excited to see how Ben's story ends.

https://youtu.be/V2SqOFDC4JE
Video of Ben Smith working Bully Wall

Dramatic Exit

posted Nov 15, 2018, 9:13 AM by Site Admin   [ updated Nov 15, 2018, 2:52 PM ]

Jacky Godoffe established the first V11 boulder in Fontainebleau in 1984. 17 years later Nick Sagar established the first V11 in Nova Scotia High Maintenance. Almost as an homage to Godoffe's rig, High Maintenance is pure old school style: sandbagged impossibly blank high-ball slab with a bad landing. This is real slab climbing - not that goofy parkour shit popular at the world cup. No plastic princes are going to mess with this OG rig.

It took another 17 years for High Maintainance to see another ascent. Sebastian Pacey-Smith made an impressive single session send!

https://youtu.be/-5H_lwZP5Y4
Video of Seb on a rare ascent of High Maintenance V11 at the Pleasure Dome in LOC

1-10 of 192