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Limiting Factor

posted May 28, 2018, 5:44 AM by Aubree Harrison   [ updated May 28, 2018, 5:46 AM ]
Some climbs consist of a dozen perfectly consistent moves, which can be made easier by "projecting". These problems are the 5-star classics. They get easier over time as you lower the strength requirements by practicing the coordination and recruitment of existing muscle fibers. Improved performance is neurological, not muscular. No hangboard required.

Other climbs are closer to pinky levers. No amount of practice is going to make a pinky lever possible if you lack the minimum cross-sectional area in your flexor digitorum and posterior deltoid. 


Visage Coupe is as close to this style of climb as Nova Scotia has to offer. This climb can not be worked. It is a pure feat of strength. If you can't pull the start move, hit the hang board for a month and try again.  

Grade? Impossible. Until it isn't. Then it feels easy. These climbs get sand bagged by climbers with steel cables for finger tendons. They probably shouldn't have grades. They are feats of strength. Grading them is backwards. These climbs define the climber rather than climber defining the climb. Pure benchmarks. One arm pullups, pinky levers, visage coupe. Probably in that order.


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Aubree Harrison,
May 28, 2018, 5:44 AM
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