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New Blocs on Dover!

posted Aug 9, 2018, 10:55 AM by Rob Grandy   [ updated Aug 9, 2018, 2:57 PM ]
The ocean giveth, the ocean taketh away...

Normally when boulders on Dover Island get shifted around by the ocean, there's a net-loss for climbers:

Figure 1. The One Scoop Boulder is somewhere in the Atlantic Ocean right now,
leaving page 27 of Halifax Bouldering mostly useless...
(Photo stolen from Zig's Blog)


This winter, however, there have been some new additions to the island. Some of the talus below a roof before the Solarium Area washed away, opening up:


Figure 2. The Gift wall. We're sure some of these lines may have 
been climbed before, but lower starts have opened up and the landings
are now friendly enough that they've become actually pleasant to climb.
Figure 3. The Junebug Boulder is a new addition between The Gift and the ocean,
hosting various 50+ foot traverses. It's a great spot for beginners, or to warm up!

So far, the only lines that have been climbed are:
  • Dan Jolivet's jug/sloper fest Low Hanging Fruit V2 
  • Ian Whitehead's absurd inverted offwidth Two Deep V4 
    https://youtu.be/-4sEMZhjgAI
      
  • and various traverses on the lower Junebug Boulder 
But there are plenty of new projects to be done!


A giant boulder slid out from under a roof at the end of The Wave area, opening up 2 new lines along with a few new projects.
Climbing the left arete of the boulder itself is a dandy V3 called Kilogram 
https://youtu.be/cv-qAE9PrQs

Figure 4. This one was really popular at Boulderfest this year. 
Unintimidating V3 climbing with provocative moves.

The plumb-line on the roof is a new V5 called Witness Protection 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=020ibwZ6IFo

It's not an exaggeration to say that this could likely become one of the most popular classics on Dover. With it's moderate-difficulty gymnastic roof climbing, this line fills the gap left by the now less-than-classic  Orangutang...
Figure 5. Originally thought to be a flash FA by Rob Grandy. 
Turned out that Smizzle had done it a couple weeks ago.  Life is rough sometimes...
Photos by Alex Maclean





Climb them now before they're gone....








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