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Rubric Of Ruin

posted Jun 8, 2019, 12:06 PM by David Quinn   [ updated Jun 9, 2019, 4:40 AM ]
Seaside boulder problems in Nova Scotia are ephemeral. They come and go at the pleasure of the North Atlantic. Whole areas have been swallowed by the ocean. Problems change over the years, usually for the worse. Ghislain's Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of those rare problems that may have actually improved.

https://youtu.be/gg5spNK7p8Q

Originally a cruxy V8 with a morpho start, Trouble in Paradise V5 has gotten much easier by a broken hold and is now beautifully consistent. 

NS climbers are so desperate for a tiny taste of roof climbing they bushwhack into the depths of Grover for a single move on Black Beast V5 or ravage their fingertips on the grotesquely sharp Hoofmaker V6 (more of a bulge than a roof). 

Now you can experience real roof climbing with a short approach and beautiful seaside aesthetic. Trouble in Paradise V5 is one of the **ONLY** true roof problem on the mainland! Hero moves on huge holds, multiple moves of true roof climbing, and consistent difficulty. This climb is fantastic! Now featuring a much more accessible difficulty.

Caution: The rockover topout is a jug haul, but is essentially a V2 freesolo. The orignal landing has washed into the ocean and is now impossible to pad and hard to spot.  Send or die.   Not a project for novice climbers.

The flake has dislodges exposing a beautiful mini jug
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David Quinn,
Jun 8, 2019, 12:06 PM
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David Quinn,
Jun 8, 2019, 12:06 PM
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