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Size Isn't Everything

posted May 26, 2019, 8:17 AM by Site Admin   [ updated May 26, 2019, 8:21 AM ]
Seb and Krista were in town for the Seven Bays competition, and we made the best of gruesome bouldering condiditons with a fun seaside circuit at the Twin Sisters. Krista walked up the classic Tough Sailors V6 and we captured a nice video to help similarily sized climbers scoop her excellent beta. 

Size isn't everything, but when it comes to rock climbing, it counts for an aweful lot. Compression is the most inherently morpho of all styles, and we captured a fun side-by-side beta clip that illustrates that point beautifully. The wire frame helps highlight the biomechanical differences:


Krista is compressing with straight arms with muscles of scapular retraction and horizontal shoulder adduction. For taller climbers to create the same compression, they need to shorten the space between their hands with biceps and posterior shoulder. Krista uses paraspinous muslces to arch her back in extension, while taller climbers do exactly the opposite with abdominal muslces to achieve spinal flexion in order to close the distance between their hands and feet. 

The same move is fundamentally different from a biomechanics point of view! Check out the video for the full side by side, and to steal Krista's silky beta!
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