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Use of Weapons

posted Jul 7, 2018, 11:03 AM by Ken Goodman   [ updated Jul 7, 2018, 11:07 AM ]
At age 17, Sonnie Trotter was the first Canadian to climb 5.14c. He has enjoyed a long and distinguished career in professional climbing ever since. 

In 2002 he established Squamish test peice Superman 5.14c. That same year, he visited Nova Scotia and established several hard boulder problems, including Bloody Arete V8 on Dover Island.

Bloody Arete is a hard desperate line that involves a double meat hook on a razor sharp arete. Hard. Sharp. Powerful. Crux start. Single move. Very seldom repeated for obvious reasons, but an impressive ascent.


Without any known beta, Sebastian Pacey-Smith defaulted to his strengths: meat hooked the arete, and busted out the most savage dyno imaginable. To fully appreciate the savagery of this beta - imagine meat hooking a pile of broken glass and than simultanously contracting every muscle fiber in your lat, bicep and deltoid... if they were as thick as your leg.

If you pay attention to the left corner of the screen, you can see Ben Smith strapping on a kneebar pad. Ben has different ideas for the beta... Stay tuned.
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Ken Goodman,
Jul 7, 2018, 11:03 AM
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