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Young One V10 - Third Ascent

posted Jun 5, 2020, 9:55 AM by admin   [ updated Jun 5, 2020, 10:44 AM ]
Over the years, we jokingly teased that Tommy Caldwell left Halifax before getting the first ascent on Young One V10 because he didn't want his name attached to such an unusual looking problem.

In reality, the vision to see such a difficult and unusual line on an unassuming bulge is a testament to the experience of world class climbers Tommy Caldwell and Nick Sagar. There are no defined holds and the techniques to make Young One possible includes a heel toe cam, an improbable high step, and a kneebar compression scum. Seeing this possibility as a first assentionist of a double digit problem is impressive to say the least.

In addition to being cryptic Young One is extremely committing, with a sloped landing that literally dumps you to your death if you stumble backwards.

https://youtu.be/7h_FF3sq-FM

The view from the bouldering pads is terrifying, and copious pre-taping of shins and knees is advised when doing battle with a sharp granite bulge in shorts (which help the knee bar pad stay in place).


The crack perpetually seeps. These cheap microfiber cloths from Canadian Tire should be in everybody's bouldering bag. Lightweight and awesome for drying wet holds and stuffing cracks.

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admin,
Jun 5, 2020, 9:55 AM
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admin,
Jun 5, 2020, 9:55 AM
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