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Crystal Crescent Beach - Main Bouldering Area

Crystal Crescent is home to a fair amount of novice to intermediate bouldering along a well groomed picturesque hike. The approach is long for the quality of climbing, but this is definitely a case of the journey being more important than the destination. Once you get to the warm-up areas, all other areas are easily found by scrambling along the rocky coast. Clothing optional.

Sandy Landing Area

1. Smear And Step Up V0 SDS
Start on your butt just left of the inside corner and crank on small holds to the top.

2. Just Another Slopey Traverse V3 
Start at the blocky descent steps and traverse left along the horizontal cracks to the far end. Before reaching the corner, add difficulty by going straight up.

3. Harder Slopey Traverse V4
Start at the blocky steps and traverse right to the hand-jam crack.

4. Hand Jam Crack
Up crack from standing

5. Cracked V3
Straight up the thin crack and face

6. A Little Horney V0 SDS 
Near the right end of the wall at an alcove, sit start below the arete and traverse to the right

7. A Lot Horney V1
On the arete opposite to A Little Homey, start sitting down and TO.

Low Ball Wall

The low-ball wall begins directly behind the Sandy landing area

1. High Ball Crux V3  (not pictured) 
At the right-most end of the wall, start on the obvious finger holds at the base of the groove
and fire away.

2. Project V? (not pictured)
The terrifying slab just right of the wide crack.

3. Nice Crack V1 
The obvious wide crack. Also a polite way to greet locals.

4. Rice Cracker V0
Easy arching crack.

5. Skateboard V0 
Follow the shallow groove.

6. Figured Out V0
Just right of "Figure Four Thing", reach the crack from standing and high step out. 

7. Figure Four Thing V4 SDS 
Start sitting under the small roof to the right  of the large rock fin, and grab the big holds. Climb out left and up. 

8. The Fin V0 
Climb up the rock fin from right to left. 

9. Slap This V4 
Running start to slopers on bulge.

10. Caveman V0 SDS
Climb the blocky dyke, starting on your butt, under the roof.

11. Cavewoman V0
Climb the thin flake right of Caveman.

12. Baby Steps VB
Climb the blocky features

13. 5.9 In Joshua Tree V0
Climb the friction slab around the corner (left) from "Caveman".

14. Walkin' The Dog V0 
Traverse the lip of the short wall below #12.

15. Nasty Crack Project V? 
Traverse the undercling.The fall looks deadly.

16. Death Crack V? 
Please don't attempt

17. Wide Crack V0
Climb the chimney crack above the ledge.

18. The Great Greasy Green Limpopo River V0 
This is fun. Fifteen feet right of the corner is a good incut hold about 7 ft. off the ledge. Stretch yourself, or jump, and top it out.

19. The Elephant's Child V0
Climb the easy corner to the right of The Benevolent Elephant.

20. The Benevolent Elephant V3 
Start on the obvious ledge using a large sloping edge for the left hand and a smaller hold for the right. Climb straight up.

21. Mr.Skin V3/4 
Start just left and on the same ledge as Benevolent Elephant. Climb straight up. All of the Benevolent Elephant's holds are out including those on the start ledge and the top. Contrived.

Aquaman Area

This tiny wall is found just below "The Benevolent Elephant" towards the ocean.

1. Wetsuit V1
Sit start below a left-leaning crack about 15 feet right of Aquaman.

2. Aquaman V6 
Start at the far right side of the boulder on two shallow incuts and traverse to the left,finishing on a reversal of the Heel Hook Traverse. [Note: the top is in for the middle section.]

3. Out Of Alcove V0 SDS
Sit start below the vertical crack and crank to the top.

4. Heel Hook Traverse V0 
Start at the left end of the horizontal crack. Traverse the crack from left to right and finish on "Out of Alcove". Not possible since large boulder moved in front.

The Stealth pants boulder was included in Halifax Bouldering and had four established climbs. Unfortunately, the ocean reclaimed the boulder destroying these classic lines.

The Cellar Area

The cellar area is found just a few meters past "Stealth Pants" towards the ocean. Buchwheat's Ladder is visible from "Aquamana" and the remainder of the problems are on the face around the corner on the ocean side.

1. Buckwheat's Ladder V3 
Climb the high seam on the slab to the right of "Double or Nothing".

2. Double Or Nothing V4  
Climb the overhanging face to the right of The Right Stuff, using the two aretes for holds all the way up. Few ascents.

3.The Right Stuff V2 
Climb the obvious high crack on the right side of the big wall.

4. Suicidal Tendencies V3 
Start on a flat triangular hold at about 4 ft off the ground.

5.The Left Stuff V0
Layback the crack on the left end of the big wall.

7. Good Morning, Mr. Graham V0
Climb the low-angle boulder at the far left end of the cellar.

8. The Whiner V0
Get out of the cellar by whining up the short vertical wall to the right of Good Morn ing, Mr. Graham. A one move wonder.

9. Spanky's Ladder V0
If you stand facing Suicidal Tendencies, this problem is directly behind you. Short but fun.

Project Wall

Between the cellar and the extra protection area is the bold overhanging project wall. All lines are believed to be V10+

P1. Project Number One
Start sitting, do technical moves up overhanging face to set up for big move to the lip. Worked for one session by Ben Smith in the winter of 2012 with all moves completed and very close to linking.

Extra Protection Area

This area is found on the hill just above the main Extra Protection Area.

1. Extra Protection V0 
Climb the obvious low angle crack in the dome

2. Tribe Of Two Sheiks V0 
Climb the slab to the left of Extra Protection.

To find the extra protection area, just scramble along the coast about 100 meters past The Cellar Area. You can't miss it.

3. Project #1 SDS

4. Project #2

5. Stop That V0

6. Flake Thing V0 SDS

7. Cassidy's 10 Star Arete V1 SDS

S.The No Rope Problem V0 SDS

Piddle Puddle Paddle Area

Follow the Coast 20 meters around the corner from the main Extra Protection Area and you will arrive at this small wall.

1. Puddle V2
Start just right of Piddle and work yourself out right (above the puddle) using side pulls. Interesting top-out.

2. Piddle V1/2 SDS
Sit-down start below the crack on the wall just left of Puddle.

3. Slopey Traverse #5 V0 
Traverse the cubic boulder from left to right, or right to left (the top is in).

4. Slopey Crack V0 SDS
Sit start below the crack on the ocean-side of the boulder.

5. Paddle V0
Climb the highly featured slab 20 ft. right of Puddle.

The Big Boulder Area

Only a few meters past the Piddle Paddle Area, you can't miss this obvious feature.

1. Floppin' In The Breeze V6
The wall immediately right of the"Big Boulder" holds this route. Stat with both hands in the crack at waist height. The aretes on either side of the face are out. Much harder than it appears.

2. The Right Side Of Mr. Big V0 
Climb the right side of the main face.

3. Dermal Destruction V3/4 
Climb up the centre of the steep slab. Avoid the big holds to the left or right. Bring extra skin.

4. Big Arete V0 
Start on the left side of the main face.Climb up and move further left onto the arete to top out.

5. Big Stop V3 SDS
Sit down under the steep arete and climb straight up.

6. The Wrong Side Of Mr. Big V1 
On the ocean-side of the boulder, start at an obvious ledge high on the left side of the face. The hold can be reached by standing on one of the boulders to the left of Mr. Big, or by jumping.