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Crystal Crescent Beach - Main Bouldering Area


Crystal Crescent is home to a fair amount of novice to intermediate bouldering along a well groomed picturesque hike. The approach is long for the quality of climbing, but this is definitely a case of the journey being more important than the destination. Once you get to the warm-up areas, all other areas are easily found by scrambling along the rocky coast. Clothing optional. Many many more climbs listed in the comprehensive topo, but quality is very low.

Sandy Landing Area


1. Smear And Step Up V0 SDS
Start on your butt just left of the inside corner and crank on small holds to the top.

2. Just Another Slopey Traverse V3 
Start at the blocky descent steps and traverse left along the horizontal cracks to the far end. Before reaching the corner, add difficulty by going straight up.



3. Harder Slopey Traverse V4
Start at the blocky steps and traverse right to the hand-jam crack.

4. Hand Jam Crack
Up crack from standing

5. Cracked V3
Straight up the thin crack and face

6. A Little Horney V0 SDS 
Near the right end of the wall at an alcove, sit start below the arete and traverse to the right

7. A Lot Horney V1
On the arete opposite to A Little Homey, start sitting down and TO.

The Cellar Area

The cellar area is found just a few meters past "Aquaman" towards the ocean in a crevasse. Only accessible at low tide.


4. Suicidal Tendencies V3 
Start on a flat triangular hold at about 4 ft off the ground.

5.The Left Stuff V0
Layback the crack on the left end of the big wall.

Project Wall

This area is bypassed by the hiking trail through the woods. Scramble along the coast past "Aquaman" about 50 meters.

Between the cellar and the extra protection area is the bold overhanging project wall. 

1. Sense Amid Madness V9 SDS https://youtu.be/5AHddzfD9Lg
Start sitting, do technical moves up overhanging face to set up for big move to the lip. (FA David Quinn 2020)

Extra Protection Area

This area is found on the hill just above the main Extra Protection Area.

1. Extra Protection V0 
Climb the low angle crack in the dome. Pleasant, with secure hands and feet.

The Big Boulder Area

The last bouldering area before the long approach to Imax. The main trail takes you right by this area, you can't miss it. After dozens of low ball lip traverses, the scale of the Big Boulder is a real treat!

Only a few meters past the Piddle Paddle Area, you can't miss this obvious feature.

1. Floppin' In The Breeze SDS V5 https://youtu.be/TvpuGCHV1fw
Start in the horizontal crack and climb the short face using side pull crimps. Terrible name, decent climb. Tricky!

2. The Right Side Of Mr. Big V0 
Climb the right side of the main face.

3. Dermal Destruction V3/4 
Climb up the centre of the steep slab. Avoid the big holds to the left or right. A bit contrived. 

4. Big Arete V0 https://youtu.be/YwYlgNYf8O0
Start on the left side of the main face. Climb up and move further left onto the arete to top out. Great holds and a high finish!


5. Big Stop V3 SDS https://youtu.be/gujVFBDjCU0
Crux start on small crimps low on the arete, to pleasant flowing on great holds and high topout!

6. The Wrong Side Of Mr. Big V1 https://youtu.be/dflSlPoksQk
Start matched on the high ledge near the left arete and climb up the front of the boulder. Beware - tops out over a difficult to pad boulder pile.
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