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Digby Neck - Sandy Cove

Planet Of The Apes

Located on the Digby Neck, Sandy Cove is a quiet and unassuming fishing village. It is also home to perhaps the best concentration of moderate (V0-6) boulder problems in the province. Its always the quiet ones eh? Well worth the drive from Halifax, this crag appears out of nowhere along a predominantly blank shoreline of volcanic basalt. Don't be surprised to see Fin Whales, Seals, Porpoises and ironically not very many fellow homo sapiens. 

Please treat this oasis of tranquility with the respect that is deserves.

Charlton Heston's Gun-Rack

The first and highest section from the tide-line, this area has flat grassy landings and some quality problems.


1. God Damn You All To Hell V2 
Begin crouched on LH side pull & RH crimp. Reach around the corner and trend upwards to slopers and TO.

2. Hot Pocket Project * (V4?)
Begin on angled side-pulls and move towards obvious pocket via crimp. Gain access to top via some maneuvering in the pocket and some absurdly angled holds. 

3. Ronda Rousey Project SDS* (V4?) 
Start on crimps in cave and move out right towards the arête. Slap into compression left hand before some delicate footwork and dead-point finish. Burly but beautiful.

4. Chip Off The Old Block SDS V2
Layback on good holds, move up the arete and TO. Harder than it looks.


5. Stegosaurus V1
Located round the corner to the left of the first set of problems, this crimpy arete is deceptively fun.

(For a real gem sneak through the gap to the left of Stegosaurus and find this beauty of an overhang. This is Zig back in 2009 on the FA of Stick To Your Guns V7)

Sharp Slab  

Just a few meters down from the first area this small boulder provides some good warm up problems and some sharpness to rival Dover!


6. Bring Extra Skin SDS V4
Start on crimp rail & left heel. Follow the impossibly sharp arete out all the way and TO. 

7. Captain Slabbin V0
Climb the face a variety of ways, all easy & fun.



8. Mudflat Mantle SDS V2 
Start with both hands on the slopers, mantle to ledge and use crimps to TO.

The Batcave

Scramble up and you will come across the obvious cave. Great for a break if its hot out.



9. Muffin Finger SDS V1
Start on the lower hold & sloper, heel and toe your way to the jug and opt for an easy exit.

10. Holy Buttcheeks Batman SDS V2
Start as above but follow the arête to the solid jug at the lip and give your spotter an eye-full before TO.


11. Undercover V6(SDS Variation goes at V7 FA Chris Richardson - 2014) 
Start inside the cave on steep but positive holds and make your way out and up the arete as above.


12. Project V?
An array of awful holds await in this steep cave. Smizz, you're up buddy.

13. Richardson's Rampage SDS V3
Up the main face using slopers.

Porcupines Love Nest

A real cave-dwellers delight. Some great steep climbs and some hard projects to the right. This area is at the highest up from the tide-line and has a large tree in front of it.


14. Slopestyle SDS V3
Whilst dreaming of fresh pow, use slopers to make your way up the left side of the arete. Technical!

15. No Style SDS V3
The uglier, burlier brother of Slopestyle. Big gaston first move followed by good holds. Deceptively steep.

16. Project V?
Sit start on the far left flake and trend right into some better holds. Possibilities for direct starts to the right if you are packing your guns.

Eggshell Wall

This short wall is home to some easy face climbs and a nice arete for a warm-up.


17. Yolks On You SDS V1
Awkward pull from crimps to better holds and TO. Meh climb, nice holds.

Black Slabbath Wall

Located behind the natural trail that cuts in at the top of the crag. A great way to try out some slab climbing without having to bring spare underwear


18. No Pressure SDS V6
Steep overhang with a couple of pinches and some razor sharp crimps. (FA Chris Richardson - 2014)

19. Project V?
Climb the arete/left hand face using slopers to start with some good holds nearer the top.

20. Fairies Wear Boots SDS V3
Start on jugs with feet underneath the slab. Traverse left, mantle crux and straight up. 

21. Plume Of Feathers V0
Climb the face on a mix of crimps and slopers.

22. Ozzy's Arete V0
Starting to the large flake, climb the arete and TO.


23. Name This Problem V0
Couple of nice beginner climbs. A traverse of both slab walls would be challenging.
24. Easy Like Sunday Morning V0

Shelobs Lair

Large stand-alone boulder with two steep overhangs either side of a bold main face. 


25. Project V?
Start on pinches and climb the steep line straight up. Great looking problem.

26. A Spiders Dance V0
Climb the face using good holds. Halfway crux, and always stack the pads, its a long way down.


27. Lola's Bane SDS V3
Two hands on slopey bulge, power to the undercling and good holds. The TO is worth a though, just a heads up.

Ape Boulder

The most recognizable boulder in the crag, right by the water and a great place to warm up. 


28. Faultline V1 SDS
Follow the crack from right to left avoiding jugs until the TO. Challenging.

29. Diddy Kong V0 SDS
Everything is in, probably the nicest V0 face climb ever and a plethora of options. Best warm up by far.


30. Rhino Horn V2 SDS
Big moves on good holds, steep climbing and a great TO.

31. Phill's Problem V3 SDS 
Begin on obvious crimps with big first move to the end of the slopey rail. Some intricate footwork will get you set for the horn and TO direct. 

32. Vanilla Bear SDS V2
No footwork needed. Thug your way up this dudefest.


33. Mini Monster V4
Dosent look like much but some great movement and power from such a short problem. Probably quite difficult if your name isn't Adam Benjamin.

34. Konkey Dong SDS V1
Contrived start on two ill-placed holds towards the arete and TO.

G.O.R.P Boulder 

Opposite the Ape Boulder with a great variety of problems. Plenty of trail mix will help with sendage.


35. Take It Slow V2 SDS (V3 variation; starting in the cave and traversing out and up)
Start on the jugs with big move up to RH crimp and slightly poorer holds before TO. Be sure to pad the sharp arete directly behind you. There is static beta which looks very pretty!

36. Take It Easy On me V1 
Lay back on good holds, gain high feet and reach up for the rail. Great TO.


37. Shed Some Light SDS V1
Start low on blocky holds and work your way up the arete. Wear sunglasses.

38. Crimp To The Sun SDS V2
Begin to the right on LH sidepull and RH crimp. Veer left using crimps to a solid rail at the top. Wear ski goggles.

Mini's Cave

Most recent find at Sandy Cove with some great potential. Cave is also more than suitable for tired mutts apparently.


39. Adams Project V?
Where there is chalk there is a way. 

39.5 Unicorns First Blood V8 
In the cave behind adams project. (FA Paul Denzler)


40. Smith Knee Bar Special SDS V3
Awful crimp rail and feet in the cave. Out to the arete and up with optional knee-bar! 

41. Dynosoreass Project V?
Dyno from evil crimps to the bomber rail. Must be done.

Stan Boulder

Right side is Satanic Ritual, left side linking into Satanic Ritual is Devil's Playground.

42. Devil's Playground V11
From low crimp sidepulls, do powerful moves on thin holds to link into the obvious jug on Satanic Ritual & top out. Sharp and stellar. (FA Taylor Kilgour 2016)

43. Satanic Ritual V7
Low start on sharp crimp rail with awkward feet. Make your way straight up to the obvious jug & top out direct. It's recommended that you look for the good left crimp before getting to the topout. (FA Taylor Kilgour 2016)

Thats all for now folks...probably around another 30-40 problems at least, just need more time! Happy sending and any feedback on grades are more than welcome.
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
ą
Dale Kahneman,
Nov 26, 2014, 3:42 PM
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