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Dover - Optimus Prime Area

Wide angle view of the Optimus Prime Area

0. Greasy Traverse V2 SDS
Left to right along horizontal crack.

1. Greasy Jungle V 6/7
Start on jugs under roof, pull up and out onto edges, dyno up front face to jug and top out. Bring a good spotter as the landing slopes down sharply and is often wet.

2. Bloody Arete V8
As the name suggests... (FA Sonnie Trotter 2002)

3. Nuthin' But Gravy V4
Begin in crack, move out roof and up arete. Tricky beta.

4. The Great White Lobster V8 SDS
Start with left hand crimping top of mini jug, and right hand in roof seam. Climb out short roof. Left slab is out. Zig gave it the maximum number of stars. Nobody does it because they can't figure it out or they think it's a turd. 

4.5. Rock Lobster V0 SDS
Up slab.

5. Voltron V4
Begin on edges and go straight up to gain slopey lip, traversing up and back into topout for Optimus Prime.

6. Transformers V5 
Up finger crack.

7. Optimus Prime V6 SDS
Up left overhanging arete and across lip to top out. Feels exposed because it is. If you over look the contrived nature it climbs much better. For full value, not allow to use the undercling.

8. Sack Up V1 SDS
Go up the broken dihedral to the left of Optimus Prime. Mostly unpaddable with insecure moves at the top. Not to be attempted by V1 climbers.

9. Fulcrum V4 SDS
Begin on crimps and/or arete at rightmost end of cave, reach up and back to triangle hold, pivoting around and up to jugs to top out. Neato. 

10. Smokey and The Bandit V8 SDS
From middle of the back wall under cave, pull hard along seam on flat sidepulls, swing your legs around, and mantel out. Extreme low ball. Exit variation - keep moving out the roof and top out the slab between smokey and fulcrum.

11. Smokey's Traverse V3 SDS
Start at the back left of the cave with both hands on jug. Do scrunchy moves back and left along wall and roof seams, topping out the short corner at the end.


Ghislain Losier on a rare ascent of Sonnie Trotters desperate line Bloody Arete