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Dover - Wave Area

1. Bulldog V6 SDS
Begin with feet on the back wall of the cave, hands in the roof. Stay tight as you squeeze and jam your way out, then pull crux mantel at the lip to top out the face. Amazing.

1a. Pitbull V7 SDS
Start deeper, at the back of the cave and burl along roof seams into Bulldog. Hard... not to get your feet wet. (FA Nick Sagar 2003)

3. Is that bird shit?
Start underneath cave on the bulge of "Bulldog" climb left and up crack.

4. Ben's Highball
Up high crack system. Don't fall.

5. No Dents Direct V2

6. No Dents SDS V8 SDS
Traverse face on tiny holds then up. (FA G. Losier 2003)

7. Un Grippe D'Homme V7
Start left hand crimp right hand sidepull under lip, work feet up to second ledge and fire for horizontal rail. Can be done from sitting, but less consistent and adds little. (FA G. Losier 2003).

8. Big's Problem V5
Climb the right face next to Wave. Enjoyable with delicate balance. 

9. The New Wave V5 SDS 
Crimp your way up the arete and top out the slab. Requires correct body positioning and strong fingers. Originally an unnamed problem, this line was overlooked for years, despite being the most direct and aesthetic line up the beautiful granite "wave" feature. Marketing matters.

11. Brendan's Moped V8 SDS
Start under lip on a rounded hold and traverse around corner and link into Big's Problem. (FA G. Losier 2003)

10. Surf's Up V7 SDS
From block under Wave, paste feet on, dyno to lip, and top out. Best if you are really tall or really short.

12. The Wave V4 SDS
Sit-start on obvious horizontal, moving up crack to gain lip, traverse right, reach up to crimp(s) and crux mantle top-out. A crowd pleaser.

13. Witness Protection V5 SDS
Sit-start on left hand crimp and right hand blocky pinch. Tension climbing up the arete leads to gymnastic moves to the lip and the gigantic horn feature. 
The giant boulder blocking this roof moved in the Winter of 2017/2018, opening up this new classic. (Note that the landing is partially in a puddle. Be prepared to sacrifice a pad to get wet, or else bring a bilge pump to drain the water.)

14. Kilo V3 SDS
This is the boulder that slid out from under Witness Protection. Sitting start with hands on obvious crimps and heel hook. Work up arete, top out right.

Not Pictured

Shorties V0 - V2
There's a few lines on the walls left of The Wave. Be creative!

The Future V?
There's chalk on the nearly blank roof face to the right of Witness Protection... Be the change you want to see in the world.
Site Admin,
Jul 5, 2012, 1:46 PM
Rob Grandy,
Aug 6, 2018, 3:08 PM