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Dover - Warm-up Area



Wide angle view of the Warmup area


1. Crack Right V0 
Climb the first tall crack.

2. Crack Left V0 
Navigate to the top of this crack on sharp holds and jams.

3. The Coffin V2
Hug up.

4.The A-Frame V1
up crack

5. The Knob V1
Walk up the slab using the big horn and leaning edges. Face holds only; resist the urge to use the aretes.

6. Agent Orange V0
Face and Crack

6a. Agent Orange in your crack
Tall crack to the left of Agent Orange


7. Orange Arete V2
Layback and smear your way up this rolling arete.

8. Stretch Abstrong V3 
Take a running start, plant a foot or two and jump for the lip. Very unpleasant if you miss and cheese-grate off the hold. Static variation V4. Using the arete V1, just do Stretch Abstrong. 

9. Deadend Slab V4
Balance your way up the slab on small holds that face the wrong direction. Crux at the top.

10. Learning curve V1 
Slab



1. Man Of Action V 9/10
As close as it gets to World cup style climbing up in Nova Scotia. Press up dihedral, then crux throw to lip from undercling. Gnarly. (FA G. Losier 2003)

2. Jugular Traverse V2 SDS 
Long pumpy traverse right to left along seam to top out above Behave. Excellent warmup.

3. Jugular Vein V3 SDS 
Awkward crux sit start gains vertical crack and climbs seaside face of Bear boulder to deceptive topout.

4. Jugular Face V0


5. Behave V7 SDS
Start underneath roof with hands jammed in horizontal crack. Hug backwards, out of roof, and up face using arete. Sharp and addictive.

5a. Bearhave V7 SDS
Link-up starting Behave then transition into The Bear arete out of the roof. (FA by Chris Richardson).

5b. Metanoia V10 SDS
Link-up starting Behave traversing into Shadow in Motion (FA Ben Smith 2014)

6. The Bear V4 SDS
Start on two good crimp edges and bust up arete and face to top out facing the same direction as the start. A Dover Island rite of passage and maybe the finest V4 in NS.

6a. Polar Bear V6 SDS (not pictured)
Variation on the bear, currently not possible. Starts on edges inside the corridor and traverses into the The Bear, but a large block has fallen and obstructed this line.

8. Shadow in Motion V9 SDS
Start as for the bear but go left on thin edges up face to a big move. (FA G. Losier 2003)
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David Quinn,
Jun 17, 2015, 1:58 PM
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David Quinn,
Jun 17, 2015, 1:58 PM
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