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LOC - Corn and Bung





1. Jackalops Can Kill V4 SDS  
From underclings go up to pinch and then climb straight up. Not often repeated on account of deadly landing.
   
1a. Elephant Collector V8 SDS    
Same start as Jackalops, move into under clings then go up to RH thumb gaston, then bust up left to flat ledge. (FA Ghislain Losier 2001)

2. Jackpot V0
Straight up large holds on arete. Airy for the grade! If this is your first V0, beware the down climb is harder than up...



3. Cornholio SDS V2-V6 
Crux start with right hand on thin crimp, left hand pinching large rail. The difficulty of this problem varies linearly with flexibility and height. Several lanky strongmen have sent Resurrection before this. Stack enough pads and you can avoid the crux altogether...

4. It's a Disease V9 
Starts with left hand on start hold for "Resurrection" left hand side pull crimp, climb left and link into jug on "Cornholio". Multiple variations emerged since nobody could decipher the original beta (FA Ghislain Losier 2004)

4a. The Fourth Hour V9
Same start as It's a Disease, traverse across low crimps into Cornholio. Hard! (FA Craig Stamp 2012, unrepeated)

4b. Black Plague V9 (with 6'2" ape) 
Same start as It's a Disease, climbs using left arete and impossibly reachy crux. (FA Ben Smith)


5. Resurrection SDS V9
Starts two hands on large low rail, powerful moves to corner and then finish up arete. Ultra classic. (FA Nick Sagar 2000)

Like many hard classics, it has been subject to significant grading controversy over the years; but in the future, the Earth's orbit will decay due to tidal effects and drag, causing it to enter the red giant Sun's atmosphere and be vaporized. Find happiness. Climb for you.

6. Carbosaurus V10 
A Smizzle dream. Very temp dependent. (FA Scott Richardson 2012)

    6a. Insurrection V10/11 
    Link Carbosaurus into Can't Trust Skinny People. (FA Ben Smith 2014)

7. The Whale's Back V3
Start on the blocky jug, slap the lip and press it out.

8. Can't trust skinny people V6 
Start on the blocky jug, traverse left on bad slopey lower rail TO far left. SDS is complete mystery. Zig says it goes at V9. (FA G. Losier 2004, unrepeated)


9. Captain Hook V5 SDS
Starts right hand pinching vertical rail, left hand mini jug and high left heel hook. Slap lip and technical climbing up arete. One of the best!



10. Overdrive V10 SDS Broken Crux Hold 2014.
Crimp up the arete. (FA G. Losier 2000)


11. Piranha V5 
Start on two flat crimps and fire up! Feels nails hard until you do it, followed by a urge to downgrade. Try to remember it didn't feel soft before you were putting down 6s and 7s on the regular...

Caution: The large flake on Piranha has been loose and flexing for some time now and appears very close to breaking off!!

12. Joe Boxer V6 SDS
Start with two crimps, lots of core tension to gain corner then up blocky holds. Pre-taping the left hand before jamming it in the slot is common practice. Var. multiples link-ups with Piranha have been done. 



13. Memory Block V2 SDS
Go up the dihedral where the big block used to be.



14. White Cracker V0 SDS
Climb crack systems to top out.



15. Razor's Edge V2
Grab large protrusion and mantel up to reach quartz crimp, stand and top out.

16. Dancing to the new Bolaro V10 SDS
Traverse twin seams on razor crimps to corner jug then link into Razor's Edge. Nova Scotia's first V10 (FA G. Losier 1999)

16.5 The Newer Bolaro V8 SDS
Start as for New Bolaro, but exit early. Bouldering is a game. If you want to play the V10 game, traverse all the way to the corner.



17. Milking the Cow V4
From big ledge, go up and out arete. Exposed.

18. Milking the Cow V7 SDS
Begin sitting next to the puddle that supplies mosquitos for the entire LOC, pull on crappy awkward holds, bust up to ledge and out arete.

17/18.5 Variation
After either start, go to ledge, throw a heel on and do an awkward mantel. Hilarious to watch tall people trying it. Avoids the injury potential of the arete.



19. Taco Dish SDS V3
Start matched on jug and traverse slopers to the left and top out high point. Surprisingly pumpy.
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David Quinn,
Jan 2, 2015, 10:23 AM
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David Quinn,
Jan 2, 2015, 10:23 AM
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David Quinn,
Jan 2, 2015, 10:28 AM
ą
David Quinn,
Jan 1, 2015, 1:36 PM
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