Topos‎ > ‎LOC‎ > ‎

LOC - The Scoop

Area has some protection from northern winds. Good southern exposure.




1. Solar Flare V4 
Ascend the slopey arete at top out at high point. Feels nails hard until you crack the beta. 

2. Bop Gun SDS V5
Climb the series of large holds to the top. This problem actually deserves the platitude or bromide of "WORLD CLASS PROBLEM"



3. When Stars Attack V7 SDS
Up the seams. Hard 2 moves. Undisputed sandbagged problem. (FA G. Losier) 

3a. When Smizz Attacks V9 SDS 
With the original crux well into V10+ for tall climbers, Ben Smith used his Jedi beta skills to "smizzle" this classic. Uses all the same holds blurring the line between variation and new beta. Still hard.

Consensus is that it's sandbagged problem (for years). The only proper thing to do is leave the grade as is. Traditionalist shouldn't be in any position of power for we would be eating gruel under a feudalistic state - Craig Stamp.

4. Back On Track V8 SDS
Pull on under overhang and suck your guts in to make tight moves to thin holds, then bust over to good arete and finish straight up. Not pretty, but fun. Easily two V-points easier than When Stars Attack... dem grades. (FA G. Losier 2002)
ą
David Quinn,
Jan 2, 2015, 10:39 AM
Comments