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Musquodoboit - Gibralter



Like all area's in Musquodoboit, this area features a beautiful ambiance in the mature forest along the river valley. Best enjoyed in seasons free of mosquitos.

The Maasy Boulder



1. Pioneer SDS V1
Start matched on juggy shelf, go right and up into scoop.

2. Jelly Belly V5 
Starts with right hand crimper on face, left hand on slopey sidepull, straight up over slopey arete.  

3. Unearthed V5 
Up dihedral using crimps and gastons.

4. Sir Richard Pump-a-lot V4
Variation on "Unearthed" - from crimps dyno to top.

5. Linus's Arete V1
Up arete. Tricky topout.

6. Fruit of the Loom V2
Climb face using both aretes.


High Rise Area


1. Derailed V2
Up and left on crimps until you can access think crack to top. Arete is out.

2. Rail Gun V0
Same start as "Derailed" but straight up slab. All holds are in.

3. High Rise V2 
Climb the parallel cracks.



4. Rise Higher V4  
Stunning finger crack.

5. Pseudo-Staircase V0
Up easy features.


Novice Nook

The Novice Nook is a collection of boulders just downhill and left from the "Highrise" area.

1. Gizmo 1 SDS V0 
Start on big rail and straight up.

2. Gizmo 2 SDS V0
Start on far right jug.

3. D.I.K. PowerHits! SDS V4
Climb the short arete.


4. Foot Fetish V2 
Straight up slab without arete. Var. all holds V0

5. Fuck Fish SDS V0
Start on big jug, and mantle.


Cocktail Slapfest is a tiny boulder just a few meters downhill from the main "Novice Nook" cluster.

6. Cocktail Slapfest V6
Slopey lip traverse. Channel your inner Bar Fight.

7. Deviant SDS V5
Straight up crack. Hard topout.


When facing downhill from "Novice Nook" looking at "Cocktail Slapfest" the grashopper is a few meters downhill and to the right.

8. Bamboozled SDS V2
Starts on low shelf, rock up onto slab.

9. Young Grasshopper Slab V0
Easy slab.

10. Eco-Terrorist SDS V3
Start on juggy arete, go up and left until you can mantel and topout slab.


Barbarian Area


1. Space Divided SDS V0
Climb the prow. Crack on the left is out.

2. Dandelion SDS V0
Climb the sharp arete.


3. A Man Needs a Maid V3  
Up cracks.



P. Barbarian Project
Start in pocket and do something badass.


Delivery Boy Area



1. Delivery Boy SDS V8 
Start in cave on slopey rail, climb out to lip and topout. (FA Ghislain Losier)



2. Cold Pizza V5 
Climb the big rails up middle to tricky topout.



3. The Roof Project
Looks stellar...


4. Signed, Sealed, Delivered SDS V8 
Up featured face. (FA Ben Blakney 2011)


5. Pointy SDS V0 

The Dolphin Rape Cave


1. The Dolphin Rape Cave V2 
Start matched on in the obvious jug rail deep in the cave and work your way out and around the feature to crux topout. Rare Nova Scotia roof climbing.


2. The End of Smizzles Extension Project V6* 
Powerful opening moves into tricky beta to turn lip. Very fun. (FA Craig Stamp 2013)

This boulder is located 50 meters downhill from the main Delivery Boy area, as indicated on the GPS map

6. Project
Up face.

7. Another Arete SDS V3
Start low on lip to left of arete, traverse around corner and up arete.




The Lost Stones Area


1. Drunk Without Drinking V 6/7 
Climb the tricky slab.  (FA Nate Smith)

2. A Stones Throw V8 
Climb obvious corner. Starts right hand crimping seam, left pinching slopey corner. Jump to place foot. SDS project. (FA Adam Benjamin)


3. Stone Seeker SDS V4
Lip traverse.


4. Fungi SDS V0
Starts on low rail.

5. Vector Affair SDS V4
Begins on jug under lip, traverse right on slopey shelf to point, then crux mantle.

This boulder is located a few meters from the Lost Stone

6. Lame-o V2  

Never included in guide for good reason, but there may be more potential for a creative line.  

This boulder is located a few meters uphill from the Lost Stone

7.   An unclaimed lip traverse, with chossy features.  Needs proper cleaning, but doesn't look worth it. 

8.  Up the hill a ways from #7 is a large-ish boulder with an excellent V1 slab called "Lost Slab" that never made it into the book.  Also on the same boulder are a few harder lines worth taking a look at.  A fallen tree hides the nicest looking project on the opposite side...
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