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Terrance Bay - Woods

Fear Of Flying

This outcrop is hidden behind a small granite dome located across the street from parking


1. Fear of Flying V9 
Video footage is not in the usual format or quality (it is found on Ben & Krissy's blog) but this problem may never see another ascent. Must on-sight. (FA G. Losier 2000)

2. Unnamed V1
Start on jug on rail left of Fear's starting hold, go straight up.


Rocket Fuel Boulders


These are the two boulders on your right seen while driving in.

1. Rocket Fuel V6
From crimps, lunge to lip and top out.

2. Ram Jet V5 
Start standing wi 2 sidepulls, climb up the right corner.


3. Enterprise V7
On the right face of the biggest boulder, start with slopers above head height and climb straight up. Temperature dependent... SDS remains a project. For an extra slopey experience, start matched.

4. Pass the Vacuum V7 SDS 
Just to the right, left hand on sloper corner, right on small crimp on lip at head height. Lunge right to good hold then top out.



Jabba Boulder

This is the first boulder on your left as you enter the woods. Problems 3 & 4 are on the boulder just behind the Jabba boulder.

1. The Parallex View V8
Start on two very small crimps and high left foot smear, climb up face.

2. Jabba the Hut V6 SDS
Traverse the lip from right to left. Very deceiving!

The right side of the boulder behind Jabba

3. The Texture V3 SDS
Start on good rail, climb over onto slab.

The Jabba boulder provides the landing for this line

4. Rollos V4 SDS
On the left side of the same boulder as Texture is an arete with a slab as landing surface. Climb arete L to R.


Gun Control

The next boulder on your left several meters down the main ATV trail from the Jabba boulder

1. Gun Control V13 SDS
Stated to have the smallest holds of any problem in the world by the mythical Tim Dolye. Second accent over a decade later by the man Ben Blakney. For all the nationalistic types that love being number 1 - This problem was Canada's hardest boulder problem and you didn't do it. Bammmmmm Green Eggs and Ham. (FA Nick Sagar 2001, repeat Ben Blakney 2010)


Hardly Easy Area

The first big boulder on your right about 30ft from the trail. A path leads to it.

1. Skinnamarink V4 SDS
Starts on flat hold moves left and top out.

1a. A Fine Disregard for Awkward Facts V11 SDS
Same start for skinnamarink, but burly moves right into "Hardly Easy". 

2. Hardly Easy V8 
Grab small incut crimps, pull to a bad sloper over the bulge, then thrusty move to snag the jug.

2a. Hardly Easy SDS V8 - Project 
Start on lower crimps. A Smizzle dream from the lowest sit. Crux start depends heavily on degree of pad stacking, making the line less pure... choose your own adventure. The pure sit from two hands on the low crimps and a single pad remains a project.

3. Magnet V9
This climb should feel like it has some magnetism. It just holds on to you. Magnets.
Start on good side pull, up left to small crimp, match, then top out as for Hardly Easy.


4. Strike 3 V10 SDS
Start under a belly. Climb up over bulge then finish the arete. FA Sonnie Trotter.

Around the corner to the right of Strike 3

5. The Matrix V2
Up the slab up and right from Strike 3.

The tall face opposite The Matrix

6. The Void Episodes V2
Great climb. Scary unless you are on-sighting twice the grade.


7. Rock N' Roll V2  
Start on big jug in crack on the comer. Climb up the comer then face. Committing. Spotters and pads won't help much.


8. Blood Flame V5
Classic! Up the technical slopey arete. Beta-specific. Great as a project or perfect warm-up for hardness around the corner. Originally a hop-start, it climbs very nicely from a stand matched on the arete for similar grade. Do you.


9. Discount Shopper V7
Start with RH on the lip with a small flaring seam, climb up slopey holds. If it doesn't feel balls hard, you're probably too far left.


10. Walking on Glass V10/11
Back arete far right of discount shopper. Obvious crimps to painful undercling.


Tumor Boulder

Downhill from from the Bloodflame boulder and along the main trail is the Tumor boulder. A strange intrusion marks the problem Tumor.


1. Half-Dozen Donuts V4
Start on painful crimps, move into under clings and top out. Very good but you don't get many tries before your tips will be mangled.

2. The Gamey Bird V10 SDS  
Squeeze the razor crimps on the prow just left of a tree. Few repeats, very impressive.


3. Tumor V7
Start on the obvious grey feature and small crimp, fire to lip. Harder since start hold broken by Seb Launcelott. Thanks a lot, Seb.


Superbad Boulder


1. Superbad V11 
Start on RH side pull and jump to slope rail. Up face. (FA Ben Blakney) Stand start is a Smizz project.


2. Project
Up the short arete from LH pinch and RH undercling.

3. Jonathan's Problem V2
Up the crack then tricky top out.

4. Project SDS
Same start as Deck of cards but go right and up the blank face.

5. Deck of Cards V5 SDS 

Just to the left of Jonathan's Problem, up small edges starting on a low flat edge.


Sister Sarah Boulder

A bit further, you will squeeze between two boulders. The left boulder is the Mr. Zen boulder, and right boulder is sitting on top of the Sister Sarah boulder.

6. Sister Sarah V6 SDS  RIP 2014
Basically a lay-down start with both hands on small edge and a heel hook. Pull really hard and use your core to gain lip then straight up on marginal slopey rails. Nice climb if you can do it, won't be around many more winters...


7. Pinball Action V4 SDS 
5ft left of Sister Sarah climb up the face past diagonal slopers.

8. Minka V4 SDS
Same start as Pinball but traverse left on slopey rail to its end and top out.

The backside of Sister Sarah

9. Cartman V4
Start on 2 long crimps. Fire to lip and TO.

10. Smizzle's V9
Start on small crimps, avoid juicy left toe hook. Fire to good hold on Ben's then finish up right.

11. Ben's V3 SDS
Start on rail on the face, up to a good hold then fire to top.

Continue uphill past Ben's V3 to find this line on the upper boulder

12. Everything Needs a Name V2
Start on big edge and fire to top


Mr. Zen Boulder

This is the boulder on the left you squeeze past to get from Superbad boulder to Sister Sarah boulder. Mr. Zen is located around the back from the main trail.

14. Mr Zen V7 SDS
Start with two slopers on the belly's lip. Hard rock-over left foot, hug the boulder to get your balance, then top out. Height and flexibility dependent; short bendy people have an advantage.


13. Gutter Ball V5 SDS
Start on ramp and right heel hook, climb up ramp left from Mr. Zen. Bring a brush.


15. The Dice V3/4 SDS
Start on low edge, move up to good white crystal hold then top out. Short! 



Meet Brass Knuckles Area

This area is found by taking a left as soon as you enter the woods just before the Jabba Boulder.

1a. Meet Brass Knuckles V4 
Finesse your way up the tall blunt arete, staying mostly right on the slab. Great climb.

1b. Caterpillar Express V6 
Bold climb up the left face and tall arete. (FA Luke Buxton 2014)

2. Shit God Damn V4
Dirty crimpy face climbing 2m right of Meet Brass Knuckles. May improve with traffic.


3. Man Overboard V9 SDS 
Start on low crimps inside the scoop, pull tenuous moves to slopey lip then committing topout in top scoop. Classic!


4. Drunk and Go Nuts V2 SDS
Start on big hold below the lip. Climb over lip and top out on slab.

This small boulder is found past Shit God Damn.

5. Low Rider V2 SDS
Traverse the lip L to R.


6. High Heels V4 SDS 
Start as low as possible and traverse the arete up and left to crux topout. Exiting onto the slab before it gets hard is V2.



Matlock Boulder

This boulder is along the path going to Yankee area. The side trail going to the boulder is on your left about 50 meters before arriving at Yankee Spirits area very faint. Very close and worth the effort.

1. Matlock V5 SDS
Start very low on a good hold. Fire up left to a flat hold then top out the corner. Unusual and fun!


2. Feather Weight V3
Climb up face around the corner from Matlock.



Yankee Spirits Area

These are found directly above the Yankee Spirits area on a short wall.

1. Red Bull V4 SDS  
One powerful move on the right corner. No pad stacking, just try harder!


2. Chipped Tooth V4  
Delicate climbing up sharp sidepulls and crimps with very thin feet. Excellent.

3. Crecendo V2 
Crimp or lay back up left-facing slopey rails.


4. Pagoda V5 SDS
Traverse the lip from R to L, TO as Yankee Spirits.

5. Yankee Spirits V8 SDS 
Powerful. Start with high left hand and right low sidepull. Bump right hand and then big move right to sloper, top out. For full value, left arete is out. V5 SDS variation using left arete. If only it was 8 feet taller... or even 8 feet tall...

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