Zig's Site


2008

2008/07/06 Chebucto Head, NS
__ photos:G.Losier 
Rich Lapaix working on the "caught on tape" project at Chebucto Head.

Today was a hot day here so we headed out to Chebucto Head. No bugs, nice breeze, many sailboats, and projects. Yes, many would think that this area is tapped out but I had tried 2 things here 5 yrs ago and they were pretty hard. So I went back today with Rich and we worked on the first which is a sit below a bulge. It starts on 2 small crimps and a right heelhook. You either go up right to a one-finger razor as an intermediate then pop to the bulge lip or you go big from the start to the lip. So we came close but didn't stick this move. We did all the rest which is still tricky to topout. Then the one to the left we tried from the sit and we could only do the first move. As a last effort we tried the stand and it was still super hard! We tried standing from a left hand slopey crimp and a bad sloper for the right. Big move to a right facing seam/rail thing. Hard! Anyway we shredded our tips rather quickly. I think with cooler temps these projects could go. Chebucto Head has a reputation for car break-ins and I'm always worried arriving back at the parking lot to see a car vandalized but today while walking back to the parking I noticed a couple having intercourse on the hood of their car! So watch out!!

2008/07/01 West Pennant, NS
__ photos:G.Losier 
Ben Smith working on Honey Bear (v12) at Owl's House during non-optimal conditions!

Ben and I went out to Owl's House today and it was hot but not too buggy surprisingly. The coast was very foggy outside of Halifax so we headed inland to work on some projects. We finished our session by linking some moves on the crimp nightmare Honey Bear. The crimps are small and sharp and you have to do many moves across a slightly overhanging face to finish up the crux of Last Chance.

2008/04/20 Musquodobit Harbour , NS

_ photo: S.Therien 
Ben Smith during the FA of Toss Box (v8) at Skull Rock in late March. 

 

2008/04/06 Musquodobit Harbour, NS

_ photo: zigtv
Scott Richardson on Knobs of Bishop (v7) at Skull Rock area in Musquodobit Harbour. There was no snow in the woods plus it was 10deg. Celsius.

 

2008/03/21 Halifax, NS


Tour de Bloc Regional competition Saturday March 29th 
The event starts at 9 am. Call for details (494-1935). 

OPEN Competition fee is $40 NonMember $30 Member 
Beginner & Experienced $20 M & $25 NM * 
- CNS is sponsoring the junior division which means that junior climbers can climb for 1/2 the entry fee!

- After party at Propeller brewery. 10pm -12am, 15$ 
- Schedule during the day is 9:30am-1:30pm qualifiers, 3pm 
women finals start, men's start at 5pm. Finals competitors must be in 
ISO 30 min prior to the start of finals. 
- Qualifiers take place in Rock Court and Fieldhouse wall. Finals are in Rock Court. 
- Live feed of comp on internet ( http://ustream.tv/channel/tdbrc 
- many prizes from the Tour's sponsors including a crash pad!! 
- We just received some new holds from Friction specifically for the regionals. 
- promo video here: http://zigtv.ca/PROMO.mov 
- Live MC by zigtv! 
* If you pay beginner or experienced fee- you are not eligible for big 
prizes or finals. 

Hope to see you there! 

 

2008/03/05 Fredericton, NB 


Eva Pepin-Helie, winner of women's open, on finals #1.

Holly Reid, 2nd in open, on the technical finals #3.
_ photos:Ann Butler
Ghislain Losier (left) and Jeff Hum (right) broadcasting the finals live on the internet. Watch for it again during the regionals coming up on March 29th at the Rock Court (DALPEX).
Full results and more on Tour de Bloc's website


 

2008/02/18 Fredericton, NB 

poster: zigtv 

 

2008/02/17 W.Pennant, NS 

photo: zigtv 
Ben Smith has climbed the 2nd ascent of Grizzly at Owl's House in West Pennant. 

 

2008/01/30 Quebec, QC 

_ photo:Holly Reid 
John Bowles, from Fredericton, climbing during the OPEN Finals at last weekend's Tour de Bloc comp at Roc Gym in Quebec city. John grabbed his 2nd win of the season. Go to Tour de Bloc for complete results and more on this season! 

 

2008/01/12 Halifax, NS

photos:G.Losier 
Ben Smith making a rare ascent of the tricky problem Nouveau Itch up at the Nouveau Riche Area during a night session this past week. No snow at the LOC. 
If the weather can cooperate for a few more days I'll post photos of boulders recently found by Rich in the Porter's Lake area! They will host a few hard testpieces.

2007

2007/10/30 Fredericton, NB 


_
 photos: Steve Adamson 
Thibault Varin was the only one to stick this sloper and top out during the finals' last boulder. John Bowles flashed the first 3 boulders to grab 1st place. 
Last Saturday at UNB was the 1st local TDB comp of the season. Climbers from Nova Scotia, NB, and Quebec made the trip to enjoy some fun problems and watch two exciting finals. It the women's open local Holly Reid took first and local favorite John Bowles took first. Close behind was the strong Thibault Varin from Quebec. Nationals have been set for next year's May long weekend in Edmonton. For more details and photos, results and more visit Tour de Bloc Season 5 website. 

 

2007/10/17 Fredericton, NB 


Climb and party at Tour de Bloc's Season 5 opener comp next weekend at UNB in Fredericton, NB. 

 

2007/10/13 Aviles, Spain 



_photos: Andrew Post 
Here are some photos from last month's world cup event in Spain which was attended by 4 Canadians (clockwise from top left: Sean McColl, John Bowles, Clarrie Lam, and Dustin Curtis).

 

2007/09/24 Aviles, Spain 

_ photo: IFSC _
The scene during the bouldering event. 
Four climbers represented Canada in the recent bouldering & lead World Cup which was held in Spain last week. Hats off to those climbers for their time, money, and effort in travelling to Europe for a week and representing Canada. John informed me that the people were thrilled to have Canadians in the event.

Final ranking at bouldering World Cup / Aviles, Spain
MEN
25. Sean McColl (BC) 
69. John Bowles (NB) 
82. Dustin Curtis (ON)

WOMEN
63. Clarrie Lam (BC)

 

 

2007/09/15 RMNP, Colorado

_ photo: Steve Woods_
Canadian Sean McColl repeated Daniel Woods' testpiece link-up Aslan (v14) up in RMNP. 

 

2007/07/04 Dover Island, NS
ATTENTION REGARDING ACCESS TO DOVER ISLAND! 
PLEASE READ BELOW: 

"Due to recent instances I have been asked to inform the climbing community, do not bring your dogs to Dover Island any more. No exceptions. 
Thank you for your co-operation."

Conan Baker 
Climb Nova Scotia

 

2007/06/20 Dover Island, NS 

Boulderfest is this weekend. Shown above is Claudia Béland killing White Trash (v8) with some pretty fly technique.

 

2007/06/15 Teva Games, Colorado 

_ photo: Steve Woods 
A quick word about Sean McColl competing at the recent Teva Games in Colorado.

TEVA GAMES - Results Pro Bouldering 
June 2, 2007 

Men
1- Daniel Woods
2- Paul Robinson 
3- Rob D'Anastasio 
4- Charles Fryberger 
5- Sean McColl 

Women
1- Alex Puccio
2- Paige Claassen
3- Angie Payne
4- Laura Griffiths
5- Natasha Barnes 


 

2007/05/20 Canadian Bouldering Nationals, Coyotes, Ottawa, ON 

_ photo: Francois Lebeau 
Zig during finals on problem #3. 
Go to the Tour de Bloc's website for the complete lowdown including full results, photos, video, national team. 

 

2007/05/01 Hull, Austria 

_ photos: Rafal Andronowski _
John Bowles of New Brunswick has returned to Europe this spring to compete in the bouldering World Cups. Last year's comps really opened his eyes to the style and level of competition found at the world cup and trained very hard during the winter for this year's series. His first showing was this past weekend in Hull, Austria where he finished 21st!! 21st at the world cup!! That is great news. 

 

2007/04/25 Ottawa, ON 

_

 

2007/04/24 Dover Island, NS


photos: zigtv 
Nathan Smith and Adam Benjamin sending One Scoop (v8) on Dover.
Boulderfest tickets go on sale tomorrow morning for CNS members and next week for non-members. Check out climbnovascotia.ca for details and to purchase tickets. The cap is 70 people. 

 

2007/04/03 Halifax, NS

_ photos: Rafal Andronowski _
Dustin Curtis sending problem #4 and securing 1st place during the Open finals. 
Tour de Bloc Regionals at Rock Court was held last Saturday and was attended by some of eastern Canada's strongest climbers. Dustin Curtis and Elizabeth Maltais, both from the Ottawa region, won 1st place in the Open category. Check out Rafal's site for more great photos. 

 

2007/03/12 Fredericton, NB


 photos: zigtv 
Thibault Varin on problem #4 during the Open finals. Thibault was one of many from Quebec to make the 6 hour trek to Fredericton to compete in the last local TDB comp before the Atlantic regionals on March 31st at the Rock Court in Halifax, NS. For all the details contact the Rock Court at (902) 494-1935. UNB put on another great comp and handed out over $1000 in cash and prizes! 

Men's Open
1. John Bowles 
2. Thibault Varin 
3. Daniel Gingras 
4. Matt Keays 
5. Steve Begin 
6. Ian Whittikar 
7. Craig Lingley 
8. Noah Dewar 
9. Jonathan Therrien 

Women's Open
1. Eva Pepin-Helie 
2. Kim Weaver 
3. Michelle Leblanc 

 

2007/02/17 Owl's House, NS


 photos: zigtv 
Ghislain on a new arete project at Owl's House in West Pennant. Snow is down to a minimum with a few icey patches. Days are getting longer and we were out today till 6pm.

 

2007/01/09 Maple Ridge, NS

 photo: D.Smith 
Sarah on the first ascent of Baby on Board. Not bad for being 6 months pregnant!

 

2007/01/02 Lake Echo, NS

 photo: zigtv 
Ben on the 2nd ascent of Old Age (v7) deep in the woods of Lake Echo.

2006

2006/12/29 LOC, NS

_ photos: zigtv 
Rich Lapaix on the new line Make a Wish. It is found in the woods area inland behind Corn boulder. The line climbs out an overhang between two birch trees! Cool!

 

2006/12/18 Annapolis Valley, NS

_ photo: D.Smith 
John Lodge on the Atlas Project on some newly found rock. More new photos to come in the next two weeks... 

 

2006/11/13 West Pennant, NS

_ photo: zigtv 
Grizzly at night time.

 

2006/11/10 West Pennant, NS


_ photos: zigtv 
Ben Smith on Papa Bear during a late night session at Owl's House.

 

2006/11/05 West Pennant, NS


photos: zigtv 
Nick on a super cool project in WP. Will be done very soon... 

 

2006/10/31 West Pennant, NS 
Nick Sagar has added another "Halifax Hard" problem to the growing list of testpieces by his home in West Pennant. His latest, VIP, starts on Honey Tree (v8) but shoots immediatly left on some unrelenting tensiony moves to a hard mantel finish.

 

2006/10/30 Halifax, NS


photos: Benoit Robitaille
Nathan Smith completing Open finals problem #1 during this season's first Tour de Bloc held at the Rock Court in Halifax. John Bowles and Tania Wong grabbed 1st place. Complete results to come on TDB website

 

2006/10/29 Maple Ridge, NS

photo: Eric Smith 
Derick Smith on the first ascent of Sheer Desperation (sit) at Maple Ridge. 

 

2006/10/05 Grover, NS



photos: zigtv 
Last night during a very late session Ben Smith completed the 4th ascent of Fine Line. Ben was quoted saying: "I promised myself I wouldn't climb outside of NS until I had sent Fine Line". And true to his word Ben left this morning for New Hampshire! 

 

2006/10/03
Tour de Bloc 2006-07 is about to start up again. First comp is at the Rock Court in Halifax on Oct.28. Check the tour's website

 

2006/10/01 Grover, NS



photos: B. Garrison 

Two old photos of Ben Blakney sending Trail Blazer (v9) in Grover.

 

2006/10/01 Halifax, NS 
RADICAL REELS. The Trail Shop is proud to host the latest project from the Banff Festival of Mountain Films. Designed to serve our need for adrenaline, and the joys of living vicariously through the hi-speed, daring exploits of others, Radical Reels will offer a ride like no other. So join us 7:00pm, Wednesday, October 4th, 2006 at Park Lane Cinemas for some of the wildest skiing, mountain biking, kayaking and BASE-jumping films on the planet. Tickets are $15.00 in advance, $17.00 at the door, if there are any left.

 

2006/07/11 Annapolis Valley, NS


_ photos: D. & S. Smith
Ghislain working on a great tall project (v??) at Maple Ridge. 

 

2006/07/10 Annapolis Valley, NS 

photo: zigtv 
Derick Smith on Far stretch of the imagination (v5) at the Maple Ridge area.


 

2006/06/20 Fiera Di Primiero, Italy 
Results from the recent bouldering World Cup in Italy. Canadians Sean Mcoll finished 9th place while John Bowles finished 58th. We will continue bringing you results and updates from these guys in upcoming WC events.

 

2006/06/11 Grindelwald, Switzerland 
Our two canadians in Europe competed this past weekend in the bouldering world cup in Switzerland. Sean Mcoll finished in 13th place while John Bowles from New Brunswick finished 46th in his first world cup. We will continue bringing you results and updates from these guys in upcoming WC events in Italy and Austria. 

 

2006/05/31 Halifax, NS 
If you want to attend Boulderfest on Dover Island, go to www.climbnovascotia.ca. There's still around 20 spots left so don't hesitate.

This year's schedule for the Monday Night Series. They leave from the St. James Anglican church on the Rotary in Halifax at 6pm sharp!!! (get it sharp, really sharp) All info is on the website groundzeroclimbinggym.com. Big thanks to Sean Therien and GZ for organizing this series.

June 5 Prospect Bay 
June 12 Duncans Cove 
June 19 Chebucto Head 
June 26 Polly's Cove 

July 3 Chebucto Foot 
July 10 Crystal Crescent Beach 
July 17 Land of Confusion: Scrappy Boulders/Area 51 
July 24 Land of Confusion: Cheesecake/Nouveau Riche/Borg Boulders 
July 31 Skull Rock 

August 7 Duncans Cove 
August 14 Land of Confusion: Mission Impossible wall/Scoop/Mega 
August 21 Polly's Cove 
August 28 Prospect Bay***Night Bouldering***

 

2006/05/22 Vancouver, BC 
The unofficial results after this past season in the CEC bouldering competitions. The CEC will make an annoucement in the coming weeks. Good luck to Sean McColl and John Bowles who will attend some World Cups in Europe this summer.

Men's OPEN Canadian Team

1) McColl Sean North Vancouver, BC206pts
2) Holowach Jason Saskatoon, SK162pts
3) Johnson Matt North Vancouver, BC126pts
4) Bowles John Islandview, NB 107pts
5) Eden Aaron Toronto, ON 82pts
6) Audy Jonathan Gatineau, QC 66pts
7) Villeneuve Simon Calgary, AB 64pts
8) Gravelle Yves Gatineau, QC 62pts
9) Losier Ghislain Halifax, NS 57pts
10) Echeverri David Vancouver, BC 57pts

Women's OPEN Canadian Team

1) Nykyforuk Noella North Vancouver, BC 186pts
2) Weldon Vikki Calgary, AB 166pts
3) Ford Erin Brampton, ON 126pts
4) Brunel-Guitton Catherine Montreal, QC 108pts
5) Wong Tania Halifax, NS 82 pts 
6) Dziak Renata Toronto, ON 76pts
7) Laflamme Cathy Calgary, AB 74pts
8) Maltais Elizabeth Ottawa, ON 73pts
9) Osborne Sheena Maple Ridge, BC 69pts
10) Lam Clarrie Vancouver, BC 58pts


 

2006/05/21 North Conway, NH USA 
Women's rock weekend coming up in June. Click here for more details on clinics and presentations


 

2006/05/20 Halifax, NS



photos: B.Garrison, N.Dumas 
Ocean Commotion and Jungle Fever, just two of the many new testpieces to go up this year. Ocean Commotion is the low traverse found left of Spanky's Arete on Dover. Jungle Fever is the old cave project on the Jungle boulder in the LOC. Other lines to go up, all by Nick, include Honey Bear, situated at Owl's House, a long crimpy linkup start into the crux of Last ChanceLast Chance is also a worthy arete climb that is long, technical, and commiting. At Hephalump, Deeper Understanding starts as Access Denied but goes up and left over the bulge past some bad slopers. Right of Access Denied is Phase VIII (or Phase III which is the stand start version). This line starts with the obvious right hand rail and cranks through 3 hard moves. Ben Smith also reversed Tsunami from a sit star naming it Imanust.


 

2006/05/15 Vancouver, BC 
Final results from the Tour de Bloc nationals held this past weekend in Vancouver. Final standings for the Tour de Bloc will be announced this week. The CEC will also post its national team list in the near future.

Men's Open

1. Holowach, Jason
2. McColl, Sean
3. Johnson, Matt
4. Echeverry, David
5. Tilling, Brock
6. Saunders, Lyle
7. Woods, Nate
8. Paholek, Terry
9. Bowles, John
10. Hopkins, Bryan
McGurk, Zak
Mah, JJ
Mason, Seth
Eden, Aaron
Voltan, David
Gravelle, Yves
Kennedy, Scott
Audy, Johnathon
Boyko, Bryan
Curtis, Dustin
Chong, Jamie
Parton, Simon
German, Marshall
Lai, Kin
Ziolkowski, Terry
Carlson, Mark
McColl, Jason
Jones, Justin
Melnyk, Sam
Walsh, Derek
Guptill, Jason
Taylor, Jeff

Women's Open

1. Weldon, Vikki
2. McNair, Sydney
3. Brunel-Guitton, Catherine
4. Nykyforuk, Noella
5. Osborne, Sheena
6. Austin, Sarah
7. Briggs, Kerry
8. Ford, Erin
9. Dziak, Renata
10. Honson, Nikki
Hessels, Nicola
Gurley, Erin
Pinchin, Caitlin
Guzzo, Miranda
Laflamme, Cathy
Coyne, Meg
Cesarone, Megan
Woollings, Nani
Berezowski, Amanda
Maltais, Elizabeth
Mah, Katie



 

2006/05/09 Canmore, AB 

Fragilo Productions just sent me his new video for the Tour de Bloc's Western Regionals which were held at the Vsion gym in Canmore. Check it out! The Nationals are this weekend in Vancouver. 

 

2006/04/30 West Pennant, NS 


_ photos: zigtv
Nick Sagar on the first ascent of Grizzly at Owl's House. This burly line is found just right of Papa Bear. Unlike regular bears grizzlys require bigger guns and more time... 

 

2006/04/25 Annapolis Valley, NS

photos: D. Smith
More new lines at Maple Ridge; another area near Bridgetown. Left and Right is John Lodge from Fredericton and center is local climber Sarah Smith.

 

2006/04/08 Vancouver, BC 


The Tour de Bloc bouldering championship will be held this year in Vancouver and Coquitlam on May 13 & 14. Good luck to John Bowles from Fredericton who will travel to the nationals and compete with some of Canada's best plastic pullers. Represent! Click here to visit the nationals' official website or the Tour de Bloc for current national point standings.

 

2006/03/30 Annapolis Valley, NS

_ photo: D. Smith 
Zig Checkin' it twice (v9).

 

2006/03/28 Annapolis Valley, NS



_ photos: D. Smith and F.Gallacher
Two more new lines named Outlaw (v7) and Sick Dog (v5) . The mandatory descent from Granite Maximus. 

 

2006/03/27 Annapolis Valley, NS


_ photos: zigtv 
Fiona and Derick on the first stretch move 
of a new line in the valley. More new photos this week. 

 

2006/03/20 Pawtuckaway, NH

_ photo: B. Meyers 
Kyle on the new line Catcher in the cold (v9) in Pawtuckaway. Many more new lines to come in 2006.

 

2006/03/20 Terence Bay, NS 

_ photo: C. Baker / tracstarr 
Craig Stamp almost sending Magnet during the CNS' TB woods event this past Saturday. More photos available on Tracstarr

 

2006/03/12 Fredericton, NB


_ photos: zigtv 
Mackenzie Oram (2nd place) and Elizabeth Maltais (1st place) on the final's problem #1 at the UNB tour de bloc. Results on the Tour de Bloc website


 

2006/03/06 West Pennant, NS

_ photo: zigtv 
Nathan Smith almost sent Weakling (v9) in a few tries but the top out was dripping with the mild temps. 


 

2006/02/25 West Pennant, NS



_ photos: zigtv 
Ghislain on the starting moves of his new line at the pit boulders called L'espion au galot (v8). 


 

2006/02/22 Terence Bay, NS

_photo: G.Losier
This just in... On March 18 TB woods will be open again for one day. The owners gave permission to host another CNS event which will start at 10am, participants will have to sign a waiver, and is open to the first 20 registrants starting... now. Email Ben Smith (bn948751@dal.ca) to register.


 

2006/02/19 Terence Bay, NS



_ photos: G.Losier
Scott Richardson climbing on a nice project in -20 weather. 
Another cold day out in Terence Bay. We went out climbing but not for long. We spent more time trying to keep warm. 



2006/02/18 Terence Bay, NS



photos: G.Losier
Ben and Nathan Smith working on Ghislain's new line La Vague de Froid (v8). This big boulder is found far into TB past Grover. Quite the hike but worth it seeing the quality lines with nice features. The only other line named 1mm (v6) was climbed last weekend on the tallest face (20'). Stay tuned for more bitter cold bouldering news! 

 

2006/02/17 Ground Zero, NS
Last Sunday Ground Zero held the 3rd Tour de Bloc comp for Atlantic Canada. Results plus a comp report by Sean Therien are found on the Tour's website. The last local comp for the tour in our region is at UNB in Fredericton on March 11. 


 

2006/01/07 West Pennant, NS

_photo: G.Losier
Nick focusing on the crux of another double digit project. This one at Hospital Hill.

2006. Another year is upon us. Even after a decade boulderers keep searching and finding new boulders around halifax and now elsewhere in the province. People are now "boulder-hunting" with GPS and satellite images. In the Nova Scotia bouldering scene, 2006 should be another fun and exciting year. Stay tuned!

2005

2005/12/11 Annapolis Valley, NS



 video stills:D.Smith

Nick on the first ascent of Checkin' it twice (v9). A stellar line and the area's hardest to date.



2005/12/10 Annapolis Valley, NS


 video stills : D.Smith 
Zig on the first ascent of Granite Maximus (v7) at a newly discovered sector. The problem traverses a seam and finishes straight up the area's biggest boulder.


2005/12/09 
Annapolis Valley, NS

 photo: zigtv collection 
During the second ascent of The Monument (v6). A monumental climb.



2005/12/05 West Pennant, NS

 photo: Sagar Collection 
On Saturday Nick Sagar completed his latest project at Owl's House calling it Last Chance. This long arete is no doubt one of Halifax's hardest lines.



2005/11/29 Annapolis Valley, NS

_ photos: zigtv 
Eager on La Liberté, an instant classic in the valley. 
Below, local Derick Smith works out the beginning moves of Jones Not Home



2005/11/24 Bridgetown, NS

photos: D.Smith 
Zig, armed with his GPS, trying to find more boulders near Bridgetown. 
Derick in Bridgetown sent me this link for a teaser for the bouldering in the valley. His email is also given for anyone psyched to get a tour of this new spot.



2005/11/21 Polly's Cove, NS

_photos: zigtv
Nick Sagar on the FA of Iron Hide. A new delicate top out on the bulge below the foundation.



2005/11/16 Bridgetown, NS

  


photos: D.Smith & zigtv 
One of the big new boulders found by the main sector. John Lodge sticking the first move of The Christening. Jeremy How on a new problem called Slacker.



2005/11/15 Laval, QC 
Final results from Tour de Bloc's first comp of the season:
Men's OPEN
1. Luke Muller 
2. René Cousineau 
3. Simon Villeneuve 
4. Dave Voltan 
5. Rick Thomas 
6. Yves Gravelle 
7. Jonathan Audy 
8. John Bowles

Women's OPEN 
1. Melissa Lacasse 
2. Erin Ford 
3. Catherine Brunel 
4. Renata Dziak 
5. Bonnie DeBruning 
6. Isabelle Piettes Jacque



2005/11/03 Halifax, NS 


The Atlantic part of the Tour de Bloc starts up at the Rock Court in Halifax on Sat. Nov.19. There is another local at UNB and a regional at the Rock Court. Visit the TDB for more info on this season.



2005/10/30 Halifax, NS 

_photos: zigtv 
Kate Smith going for the top on The Matrix during the TB Woods event. 
Despite the small attendance and periodic rain the TB woods event was an enjoyable day of climbing at an off-limit area. Climbers got to meet the owners and climb some old favorites. Below are some photos of the event. 


__ 
L to R: Remember, nobody is allowed to climb here. Keith really close in sticking Hardly Easy (v9). Felix making it up Meet Brass Knuckles (v4).

L to R: Fiona on the techy slab The Matrix (v2). Matt on the classic Yankee Spirits. Everybody wanted a piece of this slopey arete: Bloodflame (v5).



2005/10/28 Halifax, NS 

_photo: Foster Collection 
Todd loving the rock and the orange hat.
Hunting season can be dangerous for the wandering boulderer in the wild. Do yourself a favor and wear some orange when you go out. Here is a summary of some dates regarding the hunting season in NS: SEPTEMBER 12 TO DECEMBER 3, EXCLUDING SUNDAYS (source: http://www.gov.ns.ca/natr/hunt/seasons.htm)



2005/10/18 Halifax, NS 

_photo: R.Chambers 
Chris Eager slapping up Yankee Spirits in TB Woods.
Registration for Climb Nova Scotia's Terence Bay Woods Event is now open and there is still lots of places left for any CNS member interested in climbing for free at TB Woods for one day only (Oct.29). Visit www.climbnovascotia.ca for more details. 



2005/09/27 Terence Bay, NS 

_poster: G.Losier 
Bouldering at Terence Bay Woods 

*** Open to Climb Nova Scotia Members Only (Support CNS)*** 

Date: Saturday October 29, 2005 
Time: 10am 
Where: Terence Bay (directions will be posted and emailed to participants closer to eventdate) 
Cost: Free! (It pays to be a member!) 
Tentative Rain Date: Sunday October 30, 2005 

Registration is limited to the first 50 registrants. The Terence Bay Woods area is on private property and is closed to the public including rock climbing. This Climb Nova Scotia one-day-only event is your only chance to experience bouldering in this beautiful area. 
Every participant will have to sign a Climb Nova Scotia liability waiver (under age climbers need a parent or guardian's signature). 

Registration begins ONLINE ONLY on Monday October 17, 2005



2005/09/26 Hephalump, NS

_

 photos: B.Blakney
Zig sticking the testpiece Double Crossed at the Hephalump boulder during last January. Ok it's not as cold as January but the temperature is falling nicely for the fall season.



2005/09/13 Halifax, NS 

_photo: G.Losier 
Ben Smith making juice on Tsunami's crux.
This is for the people who still visit this page once in a while. One of Halifax's upcoming "strongman", Ben Smith, has been repeating some challenging classics in the last few months. In fact, I heard a rumor that he had moved onto Dover Island for the summer! I don't think that one was true but anyway Ben started with Pitbull v9 (a longer version of Bulldog on Dover), Tsunami, then the wave v9 downtown (5th ascent??), a few v8s, then the link-up of Tsunami called The Long Hard One v11 first put up by Nick Sagar and was unrepeated until now. Good work Ben! 
Locally, Ground Zero has started their Bouldering Series. Check out their website for more info. The Rock Court is planning on hosting the Tour de Bloc Atlantic Regionals once again this year. The TDB comp schedule should come out very shortly.



2005/08/30 Stephenville, NL

 photos: G.Losier 
Chris Eager working this great new line Les Tambours d'Automne.



2005/08/29 Stephenville, NL

_photo: G.Losier 
Fiona Gallacher starting the fun problem Popscile.



2005/08/28 Stephenville, NL 

__ 














photos: F.Gallacher
Chris Donahoe entering the crux of Azeral and (R) Shawn White repeating THC near Stephenville. 
A few climbers from Halifax made the trip to Newfoundland last week and checked out the boulderfield near Stephenville. This area is hailed as one of the province's best bouldering destination and for a good reason. Fun problems on a good bunch of concentrated granite boulders. Shawn White, one of the main developers over the last few years, was psyched to see some visitors test out the problems and also send some projects. There is a great limestone cave outside of Cornerbrook called The Asylum that is worth the stop. The cave is about 30 feet deep and almost horizontal.



2005/08/28 Cornerbrook, NL 

_ photo: F.Gallacher
Ghislain Losier at the crux of the Asylum's testpiece near Cornerbrook.



2005/08/08 Annapolis Valley, NS 

photo: zigtv
Here it is! The newest find in Nova Scotia bouldering. And the guy who found it is seen here on the mega project dubbed "The Monument". Derick, who is originally from New Brunswick, recently moved to the Annapolis Valley(with his wife Sarah and baby Eve) and was quick to go "boulder hunting". I bought a GPS a few months ago to help me search for new boulders but this guy with no GPS can find boulders in the middle of nowhere... it's in farm country! As Derick was heard saying: " when I stopped looking for them (boulders) they started looking for me!" It will take quite a while and much work to establish this area but once it's done it will have roughly 50-100 problems. More photos this week.



2005/07/13 Musquodoboit Harbor, NS 


New video featuring new boulders in Musquodoboit Harbor. Watch it!



2005/07/11 Musquodoboit Harbor, NS 

photos: zigtv 
Chris Eager and Shawn White on some fine lines at new developed boulders. Stay tuned this week for a video.



2005/07/06 Duck Head, NS 


New video featuring Brett Meyers sending High Tide (v10) at Duck Head with some little help from "Carb Boom". Watch it!

Tracstarr released a Boulderfest 2005 video. Great stuff!Watch it!



2005/07/04 Chebucto Head & Duck Head, NS 

photos: B. Blakney
Lisa Meyers, visiting from New Hampshire, sends Tough Sailors (v7) at Chebucto Head, Right Arete (v0), and Low Tide (v6) both at Duck Head.



2005/07/03 Chebucto Head, NS 

_


 photos: B. Blakney
Fiona Gallacher floating up the classic Tall Guy (v4) at Chebucto Head.



2005/06/04 Halifax, NS 

photo cover: Urban Climbing
This is the cover of Urban Climber's June/July issue. Frank Corl on One Scoop on Dover Island. Dover is featured as a summer destination and was written by an american climber who visited last year.



2005/06/01 Chebucto Head, NS 


photos: zigtv 
Chris on the classic traverse Tsunami (v9) at Chebucto Head. This isn't a new line but guess what? You will be able to view new ones on Climb Nova Scotia's new route database. Read all about here.



2005/05/30 Halifax, NS 

Below is the schedule for this year's Monday Night Bouldering Series runned by Ground Zero. Meet at the St. James Anglican church on the Rotary in Halifax at 6pm sharp.
June 6 Prospect Bay 
June 13 Duncans Cove 
June 20 Chebucto Head 
June 27 Pollys Cove 

July 4 Chebucto Foot 
July 11 Crystal Crescent Beach 
July 18 Land of Confusion..Scrappy Boulders/Area 51 
July 25 Land of Confusion...Cheescake/Nouveau Riche/Borg Boulders 

August 1 Duncans Cove 
August 8 Land of Confusion ...Mission impossible wall/Scoop/Mega 
August 15 Pollys Cove 
August 22 Terence Bay 
August 29 Prospect Bay ***Night Bouldering***



2005/05/30 Montreal, QC

 photo: S. Thomas 
Local (New Brunswick) hardman John Bowles looking strong at the Nationals in Montreal. 
This past weekend Allez-Up climbing gym in Montreal held the Canadian National Bouldering Championship for its first time. Actually it was the first time it was held east of Toronto. Also worth mentioning from a local aspect John Bowles from Saint-John competed and qualified into the finals. Video of the nationals to come onDr Topo. Photos from the comp are available at tourdebloc.sebastion.org. Below are the results after the finals:
Women's 
1- Vikki Weldon
2- 
Sash DiGiulian    USA
3- 
Charlotte Jouett  USA
4- 
Erin Ford
5- 
Cathy Laflamme
6- 
Nicole Reeve
7- 
Catherine Brunel-Guitton
8- 
Clarrie Lam
9- 
Bonnie de Bruijn
10- 
Nicolette Honson
11- 
Renata Dziak
12- 
Lisa Lajoie
13- 
Amelie Morin
14- 
Amanda Berezowki

Men's
1- Seth Mason 
2- Matt Bosley - USA
3- 
Simon Villeneuve
4- 
Ken Saito   - Japan
5- 
Sean McColl
6- 
Jason Holowach
7- 
Rene Cousineau
8- 
Dan Poggi
9- 
Yves Gravelle
10- 
Mike Doyle
11- 
Jodi Miall
12- 
Andre Cheuk
13- 
Alex Faid
14- John Bowles



2005/05/30 LOC, NS 

 photos: zigtv
Matt traversing Sea Saw at the Joey Ramone Area.
Lance informed me last night of the name of the small area containing the lines below (May 29). It's called Crystal Ship.
For people who have already done Chainsaw and Sea Breeze you might be interested in trying Sea Saw the next time you're out there. Start with Sea Breeze but at the lip reverse Chainsaw and top out on the far right corner where you would start Chainsaw. Pretty cool actually.



2005/05/29 Polly's Cove, NS 


 photos: zigtv
L. to R.: Matt and Felix at a crux involving a very big move and then Denise working up an arete. 
Mother nature was kind enough to give us one day (sort of dry...) to boulder. A crew checked out some new lines near the warm-up area at Polly's.



2005/05/16 Halifax, NS
 

 photo: M.Kohler
Etienne Laliberté on John Doe on Dover.
As posted on the message board... 

"Here is “Final” (may 16th, 05) list for the people who got in to Boulderfest. 
The list is loosely alphabetical. Just to let you know your boat times were requests – I will lay out the actual departure schedule based on who registered first. That schedule will be posted soon. "
Chris Hayes 
events@climbnovascotia.ca 
Allison Thomas 
Andrew Archer 
Ann Butler 
Ben Blackney 
Brett Meyers 
Carra Hazleton
Chris Adhsade 
Chris Daniel 
Chris Hayes 
Chris Hennigar 
Conan Baker 
Dan Alroy 
Daniel Dewar 
Devin Lyons
Elizabeth Haney 
Elsah Parrett 
Emilie Rondeau 
Felix Hanke 
Fiona Gallacher 
Fred Berube 
Ghislain Losier 
Graham MacKenney 
Holly Reid 
Jamie Leslie 
Jason Malysh 
Jeff Hum 
Jennifer Barth 
Jessica Ramsay
Johanne McInnis 
Johnathan Gravel 
Jonathan Lodge 
John Bransfield 
Julian O'Flynn 
Julien Roberge 
Kate Smith 
Keith Swyer 
Kozo Nazowa 
Lauren Andersson 
Lisa Meyers 
Luke Buxton 
Luke Kowalski 
Maria Sharpe
Matthew MacLean 
Mike Meade 
Nadine Dumas 
Nathan Smith 
Pawel Skorupski 
Peter Johnson 
Peter McVey 
Rafal Andronowski 
Roger Fage 
Ryan Murphy 
Scott Richardson 
Sean Roddick 
Shanwa Penny 
Stacy Lockerbie
Stephanie Dumont 
Tori Keun 
Tyler Hicks 
Tyler Manzine 
Youri Leclecq


2005/05/15 Terence Bay, NS 

 photo: zigtv
A new quicktime movie featuring Chris Eager in Grover.



2005/05/11 Peggy's Cove, NS
 
A few weeks ago there was another car break-in near the baseball field at LOC. Over the past years we've heard of frequent break-ins on tourists' and climbers' cars parked all along the road between West Dover and Peggy's Cove. There has been news that some young boys have been caught for this crime and are believed to have been responsible for many of these break-ins. Just a reminder to avoid leaving anything valuable in your vehicle at the climbing areas especially at the LOC and Chebucto Head.



2005/05/06 Halifax, NS
 

 photo: zigtv
As promised, a quicktime movie of some new problems at Grover and Nouveau Riche. Watch it here
Teth Cleveland of Climb Nova Scotia recently met with the property owners of "TB Woods" and there has been discussions of a possible future event at the woods area. Just a reminder though that the woods area is closed to everyone. The annual Acadia Climbing Festival at Acadia National Park, Bar Harbor, Maine is set for May 28-30. Visit www.nerock.com for more details in the coming weeks. Acadia is about 7-8 hrs from Halifax.



2005/05/05 Halifax, NS
 
A couple of new boulder problems to report. At Grover, 10' right of The Hobbit is La Lutte du Lutin (v6), a short cave problem with a two finger micro-pocket and a crux mantle. Next is L'échafaud (v3) which is situated 20' right of Elephant on my back. It starts with a right pinch on the corner and a left hand crimp and balances up a 20' face to a scary mantle. At Owl's House Nick completed Papa Bear just right of Mama Bear. Short but powerful, it's in the v10-11 range. Zig added an acceptable sit start to Dynamitus which would bump the grade to v9. Also at Nouveau Riche but earlier this spring, Nadine Dumas flashed the short crimpy Imogen (v7).



2005/05/04 Halifax, NS
 

 photo: zigtv
Ben Blakney reaching up for the first sloper on Tony at Grover.



2005/05/03 Halifax, NS
 
The webmaster has returned from his stint in Europe and is currently working on some new lines at Grover. A short video of a new line (v8) right of Moana will be released this week. 
The new chat forum, "Climb Eastern Canada", was very useful while I was away. Boulderers posted their recent first ascents such as Moana, Soiled, The Scream, Big Bang Theory and more. Boulderfest's registration has already begun and people should sign up asap if they plan to assist this very popular annual event. The limit has been set to 70 participants.



2005/05/02 Squamish, BC
Petzl is organizing its next Roc Trip which will be held in Squamish on June 24-26. Climbers to attend include: Said Belhaj, Harry Berger, Katie Brown, Mauro Calibani, Dave Graham, Lynn Hill, Joe Kinder, James Litz, Steve Mc Clure, Sean Mc Coll, Jérôme Meyer, Gérome Pouvreau, Lisa Rands, Liv Sansoz, Chris Sharma, Sonnie Trotter, Patxi Usobiaga, Daniel Woods. The Roc Trip will benefit the Climber's Access Society of British Columbia. Visit Petzl's website for more details.



2005/05/01 Montreal, QC


This year's Canadian Bouldering Nationals will be held at Allez Up in Montreal on May 28-29. Go to Allez Up's website for more details and to register.



2005/03/16 Fredericton, NB
Around $3000 in prizes and cash was handed out at this year's UNB Rock&Ice comp. This was the last comp for the Tour de Bloc's Atlantic region. Photos from the comp at http://www.beta-source.com. Here are the results: 
Men's Open

1- John Bowles 59700
2- Nick Sagar 59320
3- Ben Rose-Davis 30560

Women's Open
1- Tania Wong 28700
2- Mackenzie Oram (junior) 22500
3- Ellen Forhan 21130

 

2005/03/15 Dartmouth, NS
Results from Ground Zero's Valentine Massacre. Upcoming video of the comp at http://tracstarr.com

Men's Open
1- Chris Richardson
2- John Bowles
3- Jonathan Graham

Women's Open
1- Ellen Forhan
2- Tania Wong
3- Emily R.

 

2005/02/23 Halifax, NS
Climb Nova Scotia has tentatively set the dates for this year's Boulderfest event on Dover Island for June 25-26. Tickets will first go on sale at CNS's AGM on Tuesday April 26. More details to come in the coming weeks.

 

2005/02/22 Fredericton, NB
Just a quick word about Fredericton's upcoming Tour de Bloc competition. Don't miss it on March 12th at the UNB Rock&Ice Climbing Club.

 

2005/01/28 Halifax, NS
The webmaster has decided to take a vacation after finishing the guidebook Halifax Bouldering (available at The Trail ShopBeyond GravityUNB Rock&Ice Club, and MEC). He will only be back when the snow has disappeared for good. Needless to say there won't be too many updates for a while. The Tour de Bloc video should be up at www.tourdebloc.com in the next few days.

 

2005/01/21 Halifax, NS 


Halifax Bouldering 
By Ghislain Losier 
Original Text by: Ghislain Losier, Greg Campbell, Jonathan Graham, Sean Cassidy, Sean Therien, Todd Foster, and Teth Cleveland. 
Printing: Hignell Printing Ltd. 
147 pages, perfect bound
Finally! The first comprehensive guidebook to Halifax's best bouldering areas. Over 700 boulder problems from V0 to V12. Covers Dover Island, Land of Confusion, Tombstone, Prospect, Terence Bay, Chebucto Head, Crystal Crescent Beach, Duck Head, West Pennant, Porcupine Fortress, and more. Contains over 70 action photographs and invaluable Beta from local climbers who developed the areas. View sample pages.

I'm proud to officially announce the release of Halifax's first complete bouldering guidebook titled Halifax Bouldering. It will be available at MEC in the coming weeks and at other fine stores in the coming months. I would just like to say that the whole process of writing this guidebook was a much bigger project than I had anticipated!

I would like to thank the following people for helping me in the production:

  • Text: Greg Campbell, Jonathan Graham, Sean Therien, Sean Cassidy, Todd Foster, and Teth Cleveland.
  • Photos: Ben Blakney, Brian Garrison, Todd Foster, Mike Kohler, Michael Winkel, Chris Eager, Nick Sagar, Kevin Brooks, Fred Bérubé, Fiona Gallacher, and JP Graham.
  • Sponsors: Sickle, La Sportiva, Black Diamond and Franklin, Globe, Voodoo, and Climb Nova Scotia.
  • Tech Support: Sean Cassidy, Jefferey Lockyer, Michelle Jospé, and Perry Au @ Hignell Book Printing.

 

2005/01/19 Halifax, NS 


Valentine's Day Massacre Comp at Ground Zero. Visit www.groundzeroclimbinggym.com for more info. The Rock Court is also holding their next Boulder Climbing Challenge on Jan.24th, 5 pm Jrs. ,7 PM Adults Cost: $15.

 

2005/01/16 LOC, NS 


 photos:B. Blakney and F.Bérubé
We heard about the blizzard that is going to hit Halifax tonight so we decided to visit LOC before we have to stay indoors to climb. Left is the new problem Le Diamant found left of Le Safari on the Jungle boulder. Middle is Fred Bérubé taking advantage of the great friction for Top 6 @ 6 on the Satellite boulder. Right- the boys find a faster way to reach the Jungle boulder... Try at your own risk!

 

2005/01/15 West Pennant, NS 


 photos:B. Blakney and F.Bérubé
Checked out Nick's new boulder Hephalump in West Pennant and it is awesome. Great lines. Including this one up an amazing prow also called Hephalump.

 

2005/01/15 West Pennant, NS 

 photo: F.Bérubé

Somebody need a car? Zig and Chris pose in this old beater on the way to the Hephalump boulder.


2005/01/08 Chebucto Head, NS 

photos: Blakney Collection 
New problem Twin Sisters of Pain during a cold day in January. Starts below the slab and moves right to the ledge by the Slot Problem on the Twin Sisters boulders. More news coming soon...

2004

2004/12/20 Polly's Cove, NS

photos: B.Garrison 

Sequence of Le Contortioniste found above Polly's warm-up area. Check out the no-hands rest! This problem really puts you in a bunch and makes you feel like a gumby! Happy Holidays everyone!!

2004/12/13 Polly's Cove, NS

 photo: zigtv 

Beautiful day at Polly's Cove.

2004/12/03 Terence Bay, NS 
Terence Bay Woods is now closed to everyone. The owners have contacted me and Climb Nova Scotia and requested that I removed all info to bouldering at TB woods. TB main is still open as it sits on Crown land. So please respect the ban placed on their property and pass the word to other climbers.
Here is a small clip of the owners' concerns:

"We are now aware of the regular visitations by climbers and have met some of the boulderers who use the boulders on our land for their climbing.  While we are sympathetic to the users, we must ask you to let your website viewers know we do not wish them on the land for a few reasons:

1) We are not set up to handle the liability of climbers on our land. While we understand that the bouldering community is not typically one that sues when injured, we cannot possibly know that for sure, nor can we be sure that other members of the family will not sue on someone else's behalf.  It has been recommended by our lawyer that we ask anyone who is bouldering on our land not to do so. 

2) Our original reason for the land purchase was to enjoy nature in a very raw state.  We are planning to build our home there in the next year, and will work to maintain that natural “rawness” of the environment.  Despite the exceeding care of the boulderers to maintain the environment, having regular groups of people coming through the land has already created new paths, cleared brush and unfortunately cut trees that we were particularly fond of.  While we understand that none of this was likely intended to be disrespectful, again, we do not wish it to continue without our presence on the land to be able to supervise it. "


2004/11/30 Halifax, NS 


 photos: B.Garrison 
Tania Wong (Women's Open 1st) and Ruth Amirault (3rd) and Ben Rose-Davis (Men's Open 3rd) at the Tour de Bloc's Regionals at the Rock Court.

2004/11/29 Halifax, NS 


 photo: B.Blakney
Nadine Dumas high on the Right Arete at Duck Head. 
The winning photo! Ben's photo won a photo contest on NoRope's website.

2004/11/28 Halifax, NS 

 photos: B.Garrison 
Keith Swyer at the regionals at the Rock Court. Finals start tomorrow night at 4pm for juniors and 6pm for adults.

2004/11/28 Halifax, NS 

photos: zigtv
Little sequence of Au Bouleau (v8) at the Tombstone area in Blind Bay. 
ZigTV and PointPad will be filming today's Tour de Bloc comp at the Rock Court so expect a video on Tour de Bloc's website in the coming weeks. The Open's Finals are Monday night, come out and cheer.

2004/11/22 Terence Bay, NS 



 photo: B.Blakney 
Brian Garrison starting up Trespassers' Will at the Thoughtful Spot in West Pennant. 
Sean Therien and Keith Swyer added a few new lines at Grover this Saturday. On the Yukon boulder Sean added Hog Hunting Season (v2) on the opposite side of Yukon Cornelius. Keith then added a link-up of Translator into Yukon called Translate This (v3). Nick Sagar also completed the stellar arete project which he called The Fine Line and is in the v12 range. Brian Garrison repeated Sciences Feminines for his first v9. Ben Blakney did Dilemma and Old Soul for its third ascents. Ben broke a huge chunk off the start of Heartbraker which makes it a bit harder but remains at v9.

2004/11/07 Rock Court and Beyond Gravity 


The Rock Court is having their regional comp on Sunday Nov.28. It will be part of the Tour de Bloc. Lots of prizes and a cash purse totaling $500! Go get some! For more info call (902) 494-1935 or click here for message board post.

Beyond Gravity is hosting the 2nd Tour de Bloc comp (local) on Saturday Dec.5. Lots of local door prizes for everyone plus pizza! For more details call them at (902) 446-4100.

2004/11/08 LOC, NS
 photos: B.Blakney
Ghislain on the FA of It's a dirty job but someone has to do it, at Area 51. 
Still new ascents in the LOC. First up is a sit-down-start to Can't trust skinny people and goes at v9! Next at Area 51 is the incut crescent start opposite to Relocated saliva glands. It's a dirty job but someone has to do it (v7) goes up to a small crimp match then links into a dirty seam and high finish. At Mega, Chris Richardson'sIntuition on the opposite side was repeated and is around v7. Over at the Scrappy boulders, Better than a kick in the nuts, a new line from this year seems to be in the v7 range. The intimidating left arete (from Better than a kick...) which dumps you down the hill if you fall, was cleaned and sent by Losier and named Black Tower(v8-SDS).

2004/11/08 Terence Bay, NS 

photos: B.Garrison
Left- Ghislain on the arete project in Grover. Right- Ben on the 2nd ascent of Trailblazer.
A few updates from the Terence Bay areas. Ben Blakney and Nick Sagar repeated Zig's Trailblazer for its 2nd and 3rd ascents. Ben repeated the new line Sciences Féminines (v9) situated up from the arete project. A new line just right of Yukon Cornelius was done and named Translator (v5). Over at TB woods and main, Blakney and Sagar both repeated Zig's other problerm Magnet (v9) between Hardly Easy and Strike 3. A crew of people including Jeremy How, John Bowles, Heather Sagar, and Keith Swyer repeated Yankee Spirits all opting for the non-eliminate version. Julien Roberge had a good day sending Punchalee and Inbangyang. Blakney made the 2nd ascent of Naufrage (v9).


2004/10/04 Duck Head, NS

 photo: B.Blakney 
Umberto sending Z-haul (v9) at Duck Head.
Umberto, originally from Cornwall, ON, has been following a course in NS for a month now and has been spending his free time on Halifax's boulders while he's not in school. Good job buddy! Click here for Blakney's video of Umberto's send.

2004/10/04 Halifax, NS
There hasn't been many updates in the last month but that doesn't mean nothing has been moving. Still new problems here and there. And I've decided to write a complete guidebook to Halifax bouldering. I plan on having it out before Christmas. The ABC is now part of the Tour de Bloc, the national bouldering comp circuit, and will make a stop at The Rock Court (Regional on Nov.28), Beyond Gravity (local on Dec.5), and in Fredericton at UNB (local Mar.12). Check it out on the web www.tourdebloc.com

2004/09/02 Dover Island, NS
 photo: F.Berube
Andy testing himself on the classic Exciter. He was one of several americans who visited Dover this summer.

2004/09/01 Dover Island, NS

 photo: F.Berube
Here's the beta for the new problem on Orgasmatron wall called Blacksmith. The only shot missing is sticking the lip which is one foot higher than shown!

2004/08/30 Terence Bay, NS
 photos: F.Gallacher Collection 
Here's the beta for zig's new problem Magnet (v10) found between Hardly easy and Strike 3 at TB woods.

2004/08/29 Dover Island, NS
 photo: zigtv
Fiona on Big's problem on Dover.
Dover Island was very busy this summer with many visitors from the US as far as Maryland and two from Sweden. A few new lines were added to the island including Blacksmith (v9), a very long deadpoint/dyno found between Orgasmatron and Orange CrushOptimus Prime (v6), which climbs a short steep arete right ofFulcrum (see Boulderfest photo below), and The great white lobster (v8), a burly low ball roof to the right of Optimus first put up by Tim Kemple. Third Whale, the thin slab by Orgasmatron, has settled for a v8 grade since a hold broke making it easier.

2004/08/05 Herring Cove, NS
 photos: zigtv
Fiona starting The Low Traverse (v5) at the double dyno area.

2004/07/30 West Dover, NS 
For those who have been to Dover Island before you probably have met Norm the friendly blacksmith who often ferries climbers to and back from the island. I heard today that Norm had a heart attack and is recovering in the hospital. His friends and family have requested that climbers avoid calling at Norm's place. Some climbers are planning on preparing a get-well card for him and future development will be posted on CNS's message board. We wish you a good recovery Norm!

2004/07/25 Lake Echo, NS
 photos: zigtv
This is no doubt one of the best looking project around Halifax. Nice flat edges spaced up a slightly overhanging face. The downside is that the blank top out is the crux and the access is a 30 minute hike.

2004/07/23 Bar Harbor, Maine
 photos: Blakney Collection 
Ben Blakney tugging on Tug Boat (v9) in Bar Harbor.

2004/07/19 Dover, NS

 photos: B.Garrison and zigtv
Brett on Man of Action (v10) at the warm-up area and Tim doing a keg stand at Boulderfest. Tim held the record time of 16 seconds!

2004/07/18 Grover, NS
 photos: zigtv
L to R: Chris on a new stellar project on the peninsula near Grover. Shawn on Black Beast (v5) also near Grover.

2004/07/18 Halifax, NS
Click here to check out the ABC 2004 video in quicktime. Remember it takes a while to load so be patient. Send me an email (zigtv_2000@yahoo.com) and tell me what you think!

2004/07/12 Dover, NS
 photos: B.Garrison 
Ghislain on his new roof problem Stone Slinger (v10) below the warm-up area. There's also a new v7 to the right of this called Out of gas which traverses a rail to a high top out.

2004/07/12 Halifax, NS

  stills: zigtv
The movie of the first season of the ABC is almost finished! The premiere will be sometime this week on this website. 13 minutes of nostalgia, make sure to check it out!

2004/06/29 Dover, NS
 photos: zigtv
Lisa Meyers sending The Bear (v4).
This past Sunday Dover Island saw 38 climbers!

2004/06/22 Dover, NS

 photo: B.Garrison
Tim Kemple on the 2nd ascent of Exciter SDS (v10).
This year's Boulderfest was held last weekend and many climbers came from out of province to enjoy the island's classic granite lines. Like usual people lined up to attempt popular problems like The Bear, Behave, Bulldog, The Wave, One Scoop, Orangutang, Orgasmatron, John Doe, Exciter, and others. Tim Kemple from New Hampshire repeated (all 2nd ascents) some testpieces like Man of Action (v10), Smokey and da bandit (v8), Exciter sit-down (v10), and then put up a few lines. Check out Keith's photo collection of the event.

2004/06/22 Dover, NS

 photo: B.Garrison 
Chris Eager on the first ascent of Optimus Prime (v6) during Boulderfest.

2004/06/16 Cape Spencer, NB
 photos: F. Berube 
Cape Spencer just outside of Saint John, New Brunswick, is quickly becoming a new popular bouldering destination. The area was discovered a while back by Hampton local Cory Goodman but major developments only started these past few weeks. Since then, about 40 problems have gone up with some being super quality lines. At first, the hipe was kept down but now it is safe to say that if you are in the area you should definitely check it out. Most problems range from V0 to V6 but there is potential for some stellar problems. One in particular being a 15 ft 60 degree overhanging prow that will likely go at more than V10. Must see to appreciate. Some rock at Cape Spencer is of questionable quality but there are enough good problems to make up for the crumbly rock found here or there. The setting is very comparable to Dover Island and other coastal bouldering. Clean rock outcrops and no bugs with waves crashing in the background. All in all it's a good find for New Brunswickers. Check it out if you are in the vicinity. Beta and photos at http://www.geocities.com/climb_welsford 
NB correspondent: Fred Berube

2004/06/14 Prospect, NS
 photos: zigtv
Fiona on the popular Sang-de-dragon (v6), Dan on a roof problem, and "Where's the scoop?", which is a good stop for ice cream after sessions.

2004/06/13 Grover, NS
 photos: zigtv
Chris Eager escaping the Booby Trap (v2), a scary 20' slab. Without a breeze inland is still buggy.

2004/06/11 W.Pennant, NS
 photos: zigtv
Left and middle - Andrew Post on Air Bud (v6), right - Andrew starting Long Ears (v8) at the Thoughtful Spot. With a breeze inland is climbable.

2004/06/09 W.Pennant and Crystal Crescent Beach, NS
 photos: zigtv
New Halifax local, Julien Roberge from Montreal, climbing the 2nd ascent of Tiggers do best (v4) at the Thoughtful Spot. Then taking a break from the black flies, enjoys the unusual featured slab Paddle (v0-). Next time you're at CCB make sure to check it out, it's found at the Waterhole area.

2004/06/08 Dover Island, NS
 photo: A.Maldonado
Topping out the first ascent of Third whale on Dover. This often tried thin line starts left of Orgasmatron and top outs around the corner (see picture). 
Boulderfest is next week and organizers are preparing for another exciting weekend. This year's sponsors include Prana, Teknik, Friction Climbing, Gripped, and Globe Climbing. This year Globe Climbing have decided to donate a set of holds and a brand new crash pad! Who will walk away with a new pad? We'll have to wait and see!! Similarly to last year a topo for the bouldering on the island will be distributed to the participants. Any up-to-date news on Boulderfest will be posted on the Climb Nova Scotia message board.


2004/05/18 W.Pennant, NS

 photos: zigtv
Shawn White on Losier's new line Weakling (v9) at the pit boulders.

2004/05/17 W.Pennant, NS

 photo:B.Garrison
Ghislain on Nick Sagar's new testpiece Old Soul (v11) at the Thougthful Spot.

2004/05/16 Boulder, CO 
PCA's Season 3 Championships were held this weekend and about a dozen canadians made an appearance. Nice job!
Men's
9th - Simon Villeneuve
16th - Seth Mason
20th - Levente Pinter
22nd - Jody Miall
29th - Josh Muller
38th - Lil Jay
51st - Luke Muller
52nd - Dave Voltan
61st - Mark Fraser

Women's
10th - Zoe Kozub
23rd - Vikki Weldon

2004/05/16 W.Pennant, NS
 photo:B.Garrison
Zig cleaning a new HIGHball at the Thougthful Spot.

2004/05/14 Grover, NS

 photo:F.Gallacher
The new roof problem Dilemma (v9) at Grover. Pointpad and ZigTV are heading to the Thoughtful Spot this weekend so we should have photos from there on Monday.

2004/05/10 Grover, NS
 photo:A.Maldonado Collection
Andrea Maldonado climbing out of Hobbit Hole (v3). 
The season is well under way and quite a few lines have been established at Grover and West Pennant. New lines at Grover include the 20' high slab Booby Trap (v2), the mini cave problem Hobbit Hole (v3), the powerful steep bulge Black Beast (v5), the traverse Heartbreaker (v9), the roof Dilemma (v9), Trail Blazer (v11) and more. Over in W. Pennant Old Soul (v11), Trespassers will (v11), Long Ears (v8) and Mr. Sanders were added this spring to an ever-growing list of hard testpieces. W.Pennant now includes areas named 100 acre woods, Owl's howse, Thoughtful spot, and hospital hill. All have good potential for many lines.

2004/05/10 Grover, NS

 photos: zigtv
Ghislain Losier on the FA of Trail Blazer (v11).

2004/04/09 Grover, NS
 photo: F.Berube Collection 
David Quinn on Lucky Lady (v3).

2004/04/09 LOC, NS
 photo: T.Foster Collection 
The lip crimper on Megaman recently broke and some worried that it might significantly bump the grade up from its original grade of v4. Megaman was reclimbed today in its new state and the problem is just as good as before (there's a sidepull just up from the missing crimp...).

2004/04/01 Grover, NS

 photo: E.Staiman
Ben getting to the lip of Elephant on my back (v7), a new 20' line that was done this past Sunday. About a foot of snow left in the woods.

2004/03/17 LOC, NS

Rich Lapaix on the new problem Men are from Mars (v6) on the Mars boulder. photos: B. Garrison Collection

2004/03/16 LOC, NS

Anna Klein on the right arete of the Mars boulder (Asteroids). photos: zigtv

2004/03/15 LOC, NS

Left- Brian Garrison on the first descent of a scary line. Right - Rich Lapaix landing the crux of his new descent! photos: B. Garrison Collection
Great weekend for bouldering and new pad descents at LOC! More news coming this week.

2004/03/10 LOC, NS
photos: B. Blakney
Zig was again out today. Here on the 2nd ascent of Blakney's Levitate (v9) at Nouveau Riche. Conditions are getting better every day!

2004/03/08 LOC, NS
photos: B. Garrison
Zig on the first ascent of It's a disease (v8) at LOC.
Here's a short "bouldering condition" report: LOC has very little snow. You might hike through a bit of snow but the boulders are good to go. Grover has about a foot of snow on the ground but many boulders are dry. 2 weeks and it should be open for business!

2004/02/20 Halifax, NS
 poster: zigtv / pic:M.Kohler 
Ok, so I've already been getting emails from people interested in Boulderfest 2004. What I can tell you is that tickets are not on sale yet but the tentative date is June 19,20 on Dover Island. There's some details from last year's boulderfest on CNS's events page.

2004/02/19 Halifax, NS
photo: zigtv
This photo was taken from my apartment window today while snow bound from the latest blizzard. Don't expect any outdoor news for a little while. February 29th is the next ABC comp at Beyond Gravity.

2004/02/16 West Pennant, NS

 photos: zigtv
Chris on the 2nd ascent of Pinch of Salt (v7) at the Thoughtful Spot.

2004/02/09 Fredericton, NB

 photo: Keith Swyer 
Over 40 climbers participated in UNB Rock & Ice's annual boulder comp. This was also the first stop in the Atlantic Bouldering Circuit. Results and photos are up on ABC's website. Have a look at the large photo gallery of the comp at Tracstarr.

2004/02/06 West Pennant, NS


 photos: zigtv
Photos of eskimo Chris working on the right line in the project cave. Steep!

2004/02/01 Salt Lake City, UT 
 photo: PCA
Congrats to all canadian climbers who placed extremely well in the last PCA in Salt Lake City.
Check out the PCA for complete details. 
Men's
1. Nels Rosaasen
6. Simon Villeneuve
15. Seth Mason
19. Lil Jay
26. Josh Muller
32. Dan Archambault
41. Levente Pinter
47. Peter Woods
51. Sonnie Trotter
57. Luke Muller

Women's
5. Lisa Dumper
9. Vikki Weldon
15. Zoe Kozub
17. Nicole Reeve

2004/01/31 West Pennant, NS
photos: zigtv
The eskimos were out today bouldering near hospital hill in West Pennant. They went back to the dry caves and started working on the futuristic lines. Pictured above are eskimo Chris and eskimo Ben working on the area's "warm-up" which is by no means a warm-up!

2004/01/19 Atlantic Canada 
Quick! Go to the ABC!

2004/01/19 Halifax, NS 

 photo: zigtv
Some eskimos thought they could of climbed outside all through January! With all this new snow it looks like they will have to stay inside for a while. Just in time for the Atlantic Bouldering Circuit! Check it out!

2004/01/16 West Pennant, NS
Chris and Zig went out yesterday at the "Thoughtful spot" and started cleaning some lines. Chris had time for a few tries on his first project. These eskimos refuse on quitting bouldering outside and plan on returning this weekend. photos: zigtv

2004/01/13 Terence Bay, NS
Just another Grover project probably in the v10 range. photos: D.Cusack

2004/01/11 Terence Bay, NS
Terence Bay, trying to warm up with a propane heater, Sean on a new arete. photos: K. Swyer 
Tonight I talked to a friend who went ice climbing today. I also went out climbing but it wasn't ice. Yup, even with the arctic chill a few boulderers were out today at Grover doing first ascents. The wind chill was -20 Celsius.

2004/01/10 West Pennant, NS
One of the many new finds. photo: zigtv
Nick found some new stuff around 100 acre wood. One new cluster has about a half dozen boulders as high as 25' high and as steep as 45 deg. (with holds). The above photo is just one cave (also with holds) found past the cluster which will host some very challenging lines.

2004/01/05 Terence Bay, NS
Mike working on One shot one kill and Chris near the top of Wet Banana at Grover. photos: zigtv

2004/01/04 Terence Bay, NS


Rich on the second ascent of One pansy fairy and Chris starting Yukon Cornelius at Grover. photos: zigtv

2004/01/03 Newfoundland, NFD
Shawn at his "secret" area in Newfoundland. Photo taken last week of Dec. 2003. photo: White Collection

It's so mild in Eastern Canada that even climbers in Newfoundland have been getting outside.

2003

2003/12/20 Terence Bay, NS

Zig on the first ascent of Gold Rush (v7) at Grover. photos: Fiona Gallacher

2003/12/19 Terence Bay, NS



Fiona Gallacher on the first ascent of Little Pigger (v3) at the new area named Groverphotos: Todd Foster

2003/12/17 Terence Bay, NS
Left to Right: Zig on an unnamed arete, Jonathan and Chris on Grandfather Clock (v4). photos: Jonathan Graham 
Oh man! Christmas for Halifax boulderers came early this year. A high concentration of boulders have been found between the Turtle and Lake boulders in TB. Good potential for lines of all grades. Stay tuned for first ascents!

2003/12/13 Terence Bay, NS


Rich Lapaix "only" halfway up The Big Event (v4). photos: zigtv
It was a cold one today but that didn't stop some dedicated climbers from going out to the lake boulders in Terence Bay. One new ascent was The Big Event which climbs along a 25 foot long undercling.

2003/12/12 St. John's, Newfoundland


Left to Right: Paul Chiasson and Vince Hempsell at the Wallnut's bouldering comp . photos: Pat Collins
Results, photos, and a video from Wallnuts's bouldering comp from this past fall can be found on Wallnuts' website. Check it out.

2003/12/12 Ontario and Quebec
Info on the new bouldering comp circuit at Tour de bloc.

2003/12/11 Trout Cove, NS

Left to Right: Fiona Gallacher and Chris Eager on La Fureur (v3), Chris on the 2nd ascent of Eager Grip (v6). photos: zigtv
A few new basalt boulders along with more potential have been found in Trout Cove. Locals have done a great job cleaning up the trails which resulted in the discovery of two more good boulders.

2003/12/06 Halifax, NS


Ben on Kleos (v11). photos: zigtv
Despite today's sub zero temperatures, Ben Blakney did the 3rd ascent of LOC's testpiece Kleos.

2003/11/24 Montreal, QC
Priscilla on her way to the top of Le toit de Sylvain (v5). photo: Etienne Laliberté
This is a photo that a friend from Montreal sent me last week. It's a classic fist jam problem that comes out a 7 foot roof that finishes on a 5 foot 45deg. face. Unfortunately this problem along with other fine lines are in an area with a very sensitive access.

2003/11/19 Halifax, NS


In collaboration with pointpad productions, zigtv brings you its third bouldering video titled ZIGTV TREE.
The 15min short features the first ascent of "Sherwood Street", the new bouldering area Hundred Acre Wood,
the world class buildering problem "the wave" in downtown Halifax, Terence Bay Woods,
the new LOC testpiece "Aftermath", and MORE!
ZIGTV TREE premieres Saturday November 22 at the Boulder Climbing Challenge at The Rock Court.

2003/10/27 Halifax, NS

Ben on the 3rd ascent of Back on Track v8 in the LOC. photo: zigtv
Have a look at the new tick list on the Classics page. Halifax now hosts over 75 problems of v8 and harder.

2003/10/25 The Rock Court, Halifax, NS
Ruth Amiro finishing a problem at the BCC2. photo: G.Losier
Results from the Boulder Climbing Challenge 2 in the Events page.

2003/10/22 Terence Bay, NS

Heather on The Gamey Birdphoto: Nick Sagar
Last week Heather Reynolds-Sagar added her second 2nd v10 to her ticklist by climbing The Gamey Bird.

2003/10/16 The Rock Court, Halifax, NS

Boulder Climbing Challenge 2
Times: Juniors registration, 11:30pm, climbing, 12-2pm 
Open category registration, 1:30pm, climbing 2-5pm
Cost: $15 (note you need a photo ID to access Dalplex) .
45 boulder problems, great door prizes lined up!
There will be a film screening of Eastern Tide at DALPLEX on Oct. 26 at 4pm.
For more details call The Rock Court, 494-1935.

2003/10/15 Dover Island, NS

The before and after photos. photo: Todd Foster
During hurricane Juan the waves were so big and powerful that the fishmouth boulder on Dover Island got washed down the slab and broke in two as it dropped off a ledge. A few boulders near Bugs Bunny were also moved creating a few lines but nothing will replace fishmouth's problems such as Wet walkie talkie, the Puker or Mason's lunge.

2003/10/06 Cheater's Head, NS


Chris working Minute Papillonphoto: zigtv
The crimpy project right of Rogues Wave was completed this past weekend. Minute Papillon (v10) tick tacks its way up a series of thin edges on a 20 degree overhanging wall.

2003/10/05 Cheater's Head, NS

Vacuum Tube. photos: zigtv
During a recent visit to Cheater's Head across from Terence Bay, an amazing new problem was cleaned and sent on one of the biggest boulder there. Vacuum Tube (v9) climbs out a steep bulge with cruxes at the start and finish.

2003/10/04 LOC, NS

Ben on Aftermath. photos: zigtv
Ben Blakney completed a new stellar line in the LOC named Aftermath (v10). Aftermath was done shortly after hurricane Juan hit Halifax.

2003/09/28 The Rock Court, Halifax, NS


photos: zigtv
For results of the Rock Court's first Boulder Climbing Challenge go to the Events page.

2003/09/26 Dover Island, NS



Clockwise from top left corner - Community Service, Priscilla working on Community ServicePitbull, and Etienne on John Doephotos: Mike Kohler
Last week, Nick Sagar added two new v9s on Dover Island. At the Solarium area Community Service traverses the long series of seams from right to left topping out on the corner. Pitbull starts deep in the bulldog cave in a crack in the roof and jams out left to link into Bulldog. Both have already seen a 2nd ascent. Stay tuned for a small photo gallery on Dover.

2003/09/24 Halifax, NS


Boulder Climbing Challenge starts this Saturday at the Rock Court.
Times: Juniors registration, 11:30pm, climbing, 12-2pm 
Open category registration, 1:30pm, climbing 2-5pm
Cost: $15 (note you need a photo ID to access Dalplex) .
45 boulder problems, great door prizes lined up!

2003/09/09 undisclosed area, Newfoundland


Left to right - Rich Lapaix on Full blown burnout, Nigel Pike on Azeréal, and Rich on Picking on the fat kid.
photo: Shawn White
Over the last year a boulderfield in a thick forest has been developed resulting in 30 new boulder problems up to v9. The very few climbers who have visited the area compared it as a very small Squamish. Most of the quality lines in the forest have been climbed but the talus field above awaits first ascents.

2003/09/05 Polly's Cove, NS


Eager on Big Tuna at Polly's warm-up area. photo: Todd Foster
Last month at the Polly's Cove warm-up area the much tried blank corner project was completed and named Big Tuna (v7).
One problem was put up in the steep cave found left and past the warm-up area. Split Crow(v7) starts deep underneath a roof and climbs an arete to a slopey top-out. Over on Dover Island, Acrobat (v7) explodes out a low roof found to the right of Spanky's arete. By One scoop is the low problem in the steep left cave Where the sun don't shine (v6) and to the right of that is Squeeze play (v5), a stiff one move crux to good edges topping out through the hole above. It starts on the rail at head height while sitting.

2003/09/05 Squamish, BC
Harry on The Proposalphoto: DrTopo.com
It has been reported that young Harry Robertson did the first ascent of a new testpiece in Squamish named Zazen (v13?). Harry also put up When Harry met Sally (v12) and repeated Siddhartha (v11). Note that last year he did The Proposal (v12).

2003/08/10 Rocky Mountain National Park, CO
Nick on Eternia in the park. photo: Sagar collection
Just received news that Halifax local Nick Sagar along with Tommy Caldwell sent the 20 foot roof Eternia (v13).

2003/08/07 Dover Island, NS
video still: Brian Garrison
Here's a photo of the first ascent of the highball Fear Factor (v2) done earlier this year on Dover.

2003/08/05 Cheater's Head, NS
_

photos: zigtv
A handful of new problems were climbed at Cheater's head two weeks ago. The gems are the two lines situated on a 20 degree overhanging wall. Shown above is Chris Eager climbing the left line named Rogue wave (v7).

2003/07/30 Halifax, NS

The premier showing of Eastern Tide: One Season in Nova Scotia will be held on 
Tuesday August 5th, 7:30pm at Pitchman's Pub and Eatery, 5287 Prince Street, Halifax. 
There will be a $3 cover or food donation to the metro food bank. 
Copies of Eastern Tide on DVD will be on sale for a special screening price. 
Presented by Metro Food Bank Society, Pitchman's Pub and Eatery, and Mountain Equipment Co-op. 
For more information contact Pull Down Productions
www.pulldown.ca

2003/07/21 Val-David, QC

photo: Seguin collection
Project at Val-David. 
The Boulder Festival, Val-David
The biggest Outside Boulder competition in Québec
Organized by Passe Montagne, More than $2000 in prize
September 20th, 2003 (Sept. 21th if rain)
Check out the 
events page for more details.

2003/07/17 Squamish, BC
Jordan Wright did the first ascent of The Tragedy (V9), in the Magic Kingdom area in Squamish. What's unique about the line is not it's difficulty, but its height. The Tragedy is approximately 30 feet high, with the crux coming at 25 feet off the ground. Jordan did fall several times working the problem, and was limited to a few attempts per day by the injury potential. The Tragedy is a real accomplishment, and is perhaps the most serious highball in Canada. 
Darlene Pidgeon continues to climb strong this year with ascents of The Great Escape (V10) and Wormworld Cave Low (V10).

2003/07/17 La Pocatiere, QC

photo: Seguin collection
Pictured here is Antoine Seguin sending Pre-mutation (5.14a) early this week at the mini monster crag.

2003/07/14 Halifax, NS
Some new boulders in Terence Bay have been found and development has already begun with potential for approximately 30 problems. Test pieces to date include Lone Star and First Dibs, both v8.

2003/07/14 Peggy’s Cove and Prospect, NS
This message was posted today on Climb Nova Scotia’s message board.

"Attention Boulderers"
CNS would like to inform all climbers that bouldering in Prospect and Peggy's Cove should be at temporarily if not permanently suspended until we are able to accurately access the following access issues. I (Chris Hayes - CNS Chair) was contacted today by a representative of the following two organizations The Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society and The Prospect Peninsula Residents Association. She has informed me that climbing in both Prospect and Peggy's Cove are illegal. 

Access Issues 
Prospect - Lands are either Privately owned or a part of the 
Park Reserve Barrens. Since we do not have permission from private land owners (which she represents) and should not be on the Park Reserve Lands due to their restrictions, it is unlawful to participate in bouldering in this location. 

Peggy's Cove - The majority of lands fall into an area called the Peggy’s Cove Preservation Area. Although I do not have a great number of details regarding the size, scope and restrictions of this area, please do not boulder here until we can get more information. 

With the recent growth in bouldering CNS has not had the volunteer resource time to keep up with related access issues. Is there anyone with some time and skills that is available to become part of a committee in charge of researching and addressing the growing access concerns for the bouldering community. The sooner we get clarity on bouldering access concerns the better for us, landowners and the environment. 
Although CNS cannot stop you from going, remember aside from the consequence of being Sued or Fined for bouldering in these areas, your actions may hinder our ability to reach a workable solution. 

Thank you for your cooperation. 

Chris Hayes 
CNS Chair

2003/06/25 Dover Island, NS

Left to right - John Bowles on Exciter, Kenny Mac on JohnDoe, Todd Foster on the new Mac Cave.
 photos: zigtv
Last weekend was Climb Nova Scotia's Boulderfest on Dover Island. Around 70people attended this year's bouldering festival. Thanks to all the volunteers and sponsors who made this event a huge success. Door prizes were donated by Beyond Gravity, Climb Nova Scotia, Friction, Globe,Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Prana, Pulldown Productions, and Teknik.

* Click formore Boulderfest 2003 Photos*

2003/06/23 Halifax, NS

Left to right - Ben on Ocean Playground (v10) and on Shadow in Motion (v9). photos: zigtv and Fiona Gallacher
Ben Harnden from Kelowna, BC visited Halifax this past month and managed tocrank some test pieces.
Ben climbed High Tide (v9) at Duck Head and on Dover (where he visited quite a bit) Bloody Arete (v8), One Scoop (v8), and the 3rd ascent of Sonnie Trotter's Ocean Playground (v10). During a short visit in Val-David Ben also did Cowboy (v10) in 3 tries. He was last seen heading out to Newfoundland to explore some of the bouldering potential. 

2003/06/14 Dover Island, NS


FA of No Dents (v8).photo: Fiona Gallacher

2003/06/13 Dover Island, NS


Man of Action at the warm-up area. photo: Fiona Gallacher
Yes it's true there's no spots left for Boulderfest (June 21-22 on Dover Island). Although you can still register to be on the waiting list. The bulge project at the warm-up area saw its first ascent this week and was called Man of action. Then a sit-start to the v2-3 to the right of Une grippe d'homme produced an amazing problem named No Dents (v8). Behind The cave of the futur in the talus area is The sugar shack (v5). It traverses a seam from right to left then busts out a small roof and tops out tothe left. Finally the backside of the one scoop boulder has a fun left to right arete warm-up and also In the deep end (v7), a new problem starting in the hole and climbing out the face using the right arete and some terrible slopers.  

2003/05/31 Dover Island, NS


First ascent of Shadow in motion (v9) at the warm-up area on Dover Island. photo: Todd Foster
There's less than 10 spots left for Boulderfest! 
Register today if you want to attend.

2003/05/26 Dover Island and Chebucto Head, NS


Jim Harrigan working out Behave (left) and the new roof problem Smokey and da banditphotos: Todd Foster
A few new exciting additions on Dover Island last weekend included Behave (v6) found just right of The Bear and Smokey and da bandit (v8) located in a low roof next to Bulldog's roof. To the right of Smokey is The fulcrum (v4), a powerful move to reach gastons.
At Chebucto Head, the 5 year old crimp project beside Tall guy was finally climbed and named L'âme en premier. A new addition to the twin sisters of pain boulders is 4 AM which starts on Tough sailors but moves left to the starting seam of Adrenaline junkie then climbs straight up the blank face passing by a long deadpoint to the "tooth" before topping out.

2003/05/05 Toronto, ON
The Blurr 2003 Canadian National Bouldering Championships were held this past Sunday at Joe RockHeads climbing gym.
For results and photos go to 
www.joerockheads.com

Men's final

Women's final

1. Nels Rosassen

1. Brandi Profitt

2. Sonnie Trotter

2. Stacey Weldon

3. Seth Mason

3. Thirza Carpenter


2003/04/14 Dover island, NS


Left to right - Ben at the crux of One Scoop, Rich starting Wet walkie-talkie, and Ben on Une grippe d'hommephotos: zigtv
A very small crew made it out on Dover island this past weekend and the weather was surprisingly pleasant. The team managed to put up three new exciting problems. The first one was a project found 10' to the right of the wave and has been named Une gripped d'homme (v7). The other two are highballs to the left of the Orantugan roof section. Although very obvious, the left to right dyke had not been climbed in fear of the holds breaking or simply of the height. Fear factor (v2) has good solid holds and the crux is low on the problem. Just to the right is One way street (v4), climbing past a number of sloping rails with a very bad fall potential. 
Ben and Rich also managed quick ascents of One scoop.   

2003/04/01 Halifax, NS

__


First ascent of Trouble in Paradise. photos: Todd Foster collection
Holiday is a small area being developed in LOC between Joey Ramone and Billabong. Trouble in Paradise (v8) is one of the latest roof problems that has been put up.

2003/03/20 Halifax, NS


photos: Ben Blakney
Slab climbing at Duck Head
Outdoor bouldering has already begun. People have been out to LOC, Terence Bay, Chebucto Head, and Duck Head. All have a few inches of hard packed snow on the ground but boulders are free of snow.

2003/03/14 Halifax, NS
Pulldown Production's film Eastern Tide received an award from the Vancouver International Film Festival. It was voted Best Canadian Mountain Film. Conditions outside are improving, almost all boulders at LOC are free from snow making the temperatures the only factor. Boulderfest is scheduled this year for June 21-22 on Dover island. Visit the website for more 
details! Below are photos from Boulderfest.
_

photos (L to R): zigtv and Chambers
Chillin' and cranking at Boulderfest.

2003/02/08 Fredericton, NB


photos: zigtv
UNB rock&ice's climbing comp was a big success with over 50 competitors, $700 in prizes, click 
here for results.

2003/02/07 Halifax, NS
Pulldown Productions' film Eastern Tide has been showing with the Banff Festival of Mountain Films world tour. Check out the 
Pulldown Productions website.

2003/02/01 Salt Lake City, UT 
Congrats to our Canadian climbers who competed in the last PCA comp held at The Front. Among them were Nels Rosaasen placing 1st and Zoe Kozub placing 8th!

2002

2002/12/23 Duck Head, NS

photo: Ben Blakney
Conditions are still quite good around Halifax. 
Above is Nick working on the "Strong Boy" project and below is Ben sending High Tide (v9).

photo: zigtv

2002/12/17 DALPLEX, NS

photo: zigtv
DALPLEX's new Rock Court hosted its December Boulder Joust last night to an excited crowd who were the first to climb on the multi-angled Eldorado wall.

2002/12/15 Boulder, CO 
Congrats to our Canadian climbers who competed in the last PCA comp held at The Spot on Dec.12-14.

Top 20
Men's
3- Nels Rosassen
12- Sonnie Trotter
13- Simon Villeneuve
14- Levente Pinter
17- Seth Mason 

Women's
7- Lisa Dumper
9- Zoe Kozub

2002/11/20 Dover Island, NS

photo: zigtv
Ben Blakney on Dover Island's classic Exciter.

2002/11/19 Chebucto Head and Duncan's Cove, NS
At Chebucto Head above Andy's area, a dangerous short bulge has been climbed and named The big fellar (v6R). Situated above a rolling slab the problem starts in a small trench on a horizontal then crimps up the bulge to a delicate top out. At Duncan's cove on the Jazzberry Ram wall, the straight up from the horizontal originally dubbed Acid Jazz goes at around v6.

2002/11/16 Terence Bay, NS




photo:zigtv
Nick wearing his hunter's orange on Gun Control. Right photo: crux hold
On Friday, Nick Sagar completed Gun Control (v11/12) one of the few remaining projects at the woods area. Previously known as the "sloper project" this technical line no doubt ranks as one of Halifax's hardest.

2002/11/14 Halifax, NS
Check out the postcards on 
DrTopo for November 10, 11, 12, and 13. It's the account of DrTopo's trip to Halifax along with some photos. The November 13th's postcard showcases Darlene Pidgeon repeating One Scoop located on Dover Island. A short video is still to come!

2002/11/08 Niagara Glen, ON
As reported on 8a, Simon Villeneuve climbed a FA at the Glen named The Crucifix (v11). Located to the left of The Phoenix which Villeneuve repeated a while back and was recently done by Adam Zarzycki.

2002/11/08 Halifax, NS
Tim Doyle and Darlene Pidgeon visited Halifax a few weeks ago and again this week along with Alex Guerrits of DrTopo. They were psyched about the areas they saw. Stay tuned for a little something on their trip on 
DrTopo.com. Here's a few new problems in the last month: At Tombstone (Blind Bay) on the big boulder beside Tombstone/Buried alive, there is Au bouleau (v8), a R to L traverse finishing up the middle of the boulder. Sit-starting on the far left is The surgeon general (v10) which finishes on the same finish as on Au bouleau. On the Satellite at LOC, Bring the pain (v8), an old slab-mantle project to the right of Crystal light. A long link-up at Chebucto Head has been done starting by the water down from Tall guy, traversing the faces R to L finally finishing on Tsunami. On Dover, the roof project between White trash and Orantugan has been completed and named Horizontal matter (v9ish). This fall Ground Zero, Beyond Gravity, and DAL Plex are each running competion series with monthly comps. Have a look on the events page for more info. Finally Todd Foster's bouldering video Eastern Tide has made the finalists list at the Banff Mountain Festival of Films. The short version of 22min showcases local climbers at LOC, Dover island, and Terence Bay and is one of only 15 climbing videos at the festival.

2002/11/08 Val-David, QC
On a recent visit Nick Sagar climbed Cowboy from the sit-start which would bring it to around v11 seeing the higher start was thought to be v10/11.

2002/09/27 LOC


photos: Nick Sagar
Kleos at Area 51 in LOC

2002/09/04 Halifax, NS

photo: Nick Sagar
Heather Reynolds-Sagar on her ascent of Resurrection

This morning Heather Reynolds-Sagar climbed Resurrection (v10) at LOC. That makes her one of the few (2 or 3) canadian women to have climbed the grade. 

2002/09/02 Halifax, NS
Today Nick Sagar completed the sit down start to Show me your guts at Area 51. Kleos (v11) is one of  the hardest testpiece in Halifax right behind The Grind at Duck Head.
 

2002/08/15 Salt Lake City, UT
Canadian Nels Rosaasen finished in a strong 2nd place at the recent PCA comp held at the Front in Salt Lake City.

2002/08/15 Squamish, BC
Pat Chung repeated Dan Gable's prow problem Encore Une Fois (v11).  Matt Lucas' highball slab Desire (30 feet high!) has become something of a classic, and has seen several ascents. Tim Doyle did the low start to Krishna which is 
probably in the V10 or V11 range.
news - by Trent Hoover

Dr.Topo reports that 16 yr old Harry ? repeated The Proposal. Have a look at their photo sequence.

2002/08/15 Halifax, NS


In the last few months a few new problems have gone up at various areas. At Duck head cove, Todd Foster added Shake n' bake (v6) on the cave section and uses a shaky yet solid block for both hands and a heel hook all at once. The scary tall face around the left arete from Skin graph has been completed just recently and named Comfort zone (v8/9) and awaits a repeat. On Dover island Sagar added an unnamed roof problem between Aaron Eden's Tourist attraction and Orangutan and checks in the v7-8 range. Aaron Eden visiting during Boulder Fest did an impressing flash 2nd ascent of Decepticon (v7) found just left of the classic v3 John Doe. Another old LOC project got completed a few weeks ago this time on the Scoop boulder. The short arete right of When stars attack produced Back on track (v7/8). On the repeat front here goes: Ben Blakney got Z-hall and X-rated the later also done by Foster and Jim H. Tyler Sherman made a few runs up the dicey Terminal velocity during one of the Tuesday night bouldering series. Heather Sagar repeated Le visage coupé (v7) at the new Chebucto's foot area.

2002/07/17 Chebucto Head, NS
Nick completed the "Tommy's bulge" project at Chebucto calling it Young One. Tommy Caldwell had begun working the awkward bulge during his visit last fall.  It is situated below the parking and to the right of Andy's area and falls in the v10 range.

2002/07/12 Duck Head, NS
Nick Sagar has pushed the limit in Halifax once again with The Grind (v11) at Duck Head Cove. Nick worked on the line for several days before toping out the steep line.


Nick on The Grind (v11) at Duck Head Cove. photo: zigtv

2002/06/10 Squamish, BC
Darlene Pidgeon continues to rip up the forest - after returning from Fontainebleau, she seems even stronger.  In the last few weeks, she has completed Sesame Street and Wormworld Cave.  Wormworld Cave is an especially notable ascent, as it is notably reachy and harder for those under 5'6" or so.  Darlene also made a rapid ascent of Dan Gable's new technical sloper problem Vitamin D (V8).
Tim Doyle finally opened the long-unclimbed problem that comes out of the right side of Israel's Cave in the Talus Area, in Squamish. Siddharta is unusual for Squamish, in that it uses a series of thin basalt crimps up a very overhanging face.  Tim understandably refrained from grading the problem, but the line of suitors for this problem was impressive, and 
included several of Canada's strongest boulderers.  This problem will certainly rank as one of Canada's most difficult.
Hope, one hour east of Vancouver, is steadily becoming a new bouldering destination for western Canada.  A posse of strong locals (including Marc Lebrevre, Nate Woods, and Quinn Chevalier) have unearthed hundreds on stellar problems on fine-grained granite.  Nate Woods' testpieces include the stellar highball Blade of Lightning (V9/10) and the crimpy Pirhanasenfossa (V10/11).  More to come from this group of dedicated boulders...

- news by Trent Hoover

2002/05/17 Niagara Glen, ONT
Sonnie Trotter repeated The Phoenix (v11) at the Glen.

2002/05/17 LOC
Becky Craig climbed Gimme gimme shock treatment at the Joey Ramone area yesterday. Previously given v8 the consensus now seems to be v6.

2002/05/16 Val-David, QC
Simon Villeneuve repeated Cowboy (v10/11) before completing the project of the extended start to Belly of a whale. Ultra Belly (v11).

2002/05/13 Chebucto HeadNS
Heather Reynolds-Sagar did Tsunami today after a few days of work. That just 10 months after having a baby!

2002/05/12 TB woods area, Porcupine Fortress
There’s a new problem to the left of Jabba the hut called  The Parallax view (v8). Starts on two high very small crimps and climbs straight up the face. PF has seen a little more traffic these days resulting in a few new problems. On the backside of the Bandit boulder there’s now The masked man (v7) and to the right around the corner The quiver (v4).

2002/05/10 Halifax, NS



Sonnie jumping on Bugs Bunny on Dover island. photo: Simon Sagar

Sonnie Trotter was in town for a visit and also to experience the bouldering he heard so much about. He seemed impressed with the areas and already plans to come back soon. Aside from climbing some classic testpieces, including flash ascents of ResurrectionFear of FlyingZ-Hall, etc, Sonnie established a few new quality desperates. On Dover to the right of One Scoop: Ocean Playground (v10), then “fishmouth project” was done by Sagar then Trotter: Wet Walkie-talkie (v9). At Duck Head Cove in the mini cave area: High Tide (v9). At Terence Bay woods the long attempted “dyno from crimps” below Blood flameHardly Easy (v9) 2nd ascent by Trotter then he added a sit-start problem to the right of the tree and finishes up the arête/face: Strike three (v9). Sonnie also repeated Fynnished (v10).

Sonnie on his Ocean playground (v10) on Dover island. photo: Simon Sagar

2002/05/10 Terence Bay 
Ben Blakney completed the cave project at the lake area and was named The Blakney Special (v9) also repeated by Chris Eager.

2002/05/10 LOC
The face project on the Dog House boulder has been completed and named Full House.

2002/02/01 Bishop, CA

photo: Carolyn Taylor
Levente Pinter on the Mandala.

2001

07/21/2001 Chebucto Head, NS 
A week before the arrival of little Finn, Nick and Heather's new born baby, Nick completed the steep crack project found at Chebucto Head. He compared it to the crux moves found on the Muir wall and named it Fynished (V10). Congrats to Nick and Heather with their new baby boy. 
 

07/19/2001 Squamish, BC 
Last Thursday, Darlene Pidgeon of Squamish (but originally from Newfoundland) sent the crimpy Squamish testpiece Zero Zero (V10), making her the first Canadian woman to climb a problem of this difficulty.  Zero Zero demands both power and flexibility - qualities Darlene possesses in abundance.  
After four days of work and a lot of daydreaming at his desk, Trent Hoover completed his cave project One Zen (V10?). The problem  is located on Eleven-Bolt Rock, just a few metres from the infamous Worm World Cave and has already had a second ascent by the ever-present Vince Chung. 
It's been reported that Sonnie Trotter repeated The Egg and also added a new route (5.14) on Cacodemon rock. 
 

07/11/2001 Squamish, BC 
Tim Clifford of Britain, after repeating The Dominator in Yosemite and The Mandala in the Buttermilks, has travelled north to Squamish.  He quickly sent The Egg (V11) - and then repeated it twice more in rapid succession.  After polishing off several other Squamish testpieces, he has set his sights on a previously unclimbed, futuristic line in the Kakodemon Room.  Will Canada soon have another world-class problem? 
Vince Chung of Victoria is also setting the boulders ablaze, sending Heather Graham (V9) in three tries, and strolling the roof problem Anubis (V7+) onsight.  He also managed to deliver the goods for the third ascent of the 20-foot highball The Resurrection (V8).  This problem, once known as Canadian Stud Bull (before a giant, but loose, positive flake was removed), is gaining a reputation as one of the best problems in western Canada, with movement (and height) similar to that of Yosemite's legendary 
testpiece Midnight Lightning. --- news by T.Hoover 
 

07/02/2001 Gap, France 
Canadian Dan Archambault placed 37th at the 1st event of the bouldering World Cup in Gap, France.  
Americans who attended included Chris Sharma (3rd), John Stack (14th), Obe Carrion (29th), and Steven Jeffrey (34th). 
Visit the results page at http://www.climbing-worldcup.com/2001/gap/j3.htm 
 

06/16/2001 Prince George, BC 
Ryan Kobylka (15) has made the third ascent of the powerful crimp problem The Machine (V8+) at the G Boulders, near Prince George, BC.  This ascent is made even more impressive by the fact that The Machine is generally regarded as a temperature-dependent problem (easier in colder weather) - and Ryan sent the problem on a warm June day! - news by T.Hoover 

photo: Trent Hoover 
Ryan Kobylka on Viper (V5), Squamish, BC. 
 

06/16/2001 Squamish, BC 
Tim Doyle repeated Nick Gibbs unnamed (but monstrous-looking) V11 highball that crosses the right flank of the roof of Gibbs Cave. Despite visits from several of Canada's best climbers this month, The Proposal (V13?) continues to reject all suitors.  Since Dan Gable fell from the final hold in late April, no one has successfully grappled with the blunt pinches of this Chris Sharma testpiece, regarded by many to be the hardest problem in Canada. news by T.Hoover 
 

06/14/2001 Terence Bay, NS 
Two weeks ago Fear of Flying saw its first repeat by Nick Sagar and we have the pics of his ascent. Nick felt it might deserve a harder grade than V7 first given by first ascentist Losier back in November of 2000. The problem is known for its bad landing  and stiff and scary crux move.  



video stills by G.Losier 
Nick Sagar during the 2nd ascent of Fear of Flying 
 

06/14/2001 Fontainebleau, France 
Dan Archambauld and Joel Morice reported that some local climber was moving holds in his local gym, and the owner told him he could not do that anymore, so the guy went into the Forest last night with a gun and started chipping holds off Carnage (side pull start), Buserie (undercling-pardon my spelling) Karma ( yes the crimp) and Fatman. 
According to Joel the guy was not mentally stable and the park authorities were not very concerned. 
news via Walson @ Flashed 
 

05/28/2001 Lake Echo, NS 
Today, Ghislain Losier succeeded on the project Cian's Echo (V10). He feels Cian's Echo is atleast as hard as The Gamey Bird (hard V9). The line makes it way up a 12' slightly overhanging corner with 6 moves on brutal fingertip crimps.  
 

05/27/2001 Chebucto Head, NS 
Nick Sagar and Ghislain Losier made the long awaited 2nd and 3rd ascent of Sean Cassidy's Tsunami at Chebucto Head. First done in 1999, this esthetic 20' traverse climbs on great rock and is thought to be stiff V8. Losier also did another repeat (2nd ascent) but this time at Herring Cove where he climbed the low-ball on the UFO boulder known as Pumped Hammies (V8) first done by Chris Checuti in 1997.  

photo: G.Losier 
Sean Cassidy on Tsunami in 1999. 
 

05/26/2001 LOC 
There has been 2 car break-ins in the last week. These two incidents have occured at the parking by the baseball field and for Polly's cove. Do not leave any valuables in your car! 
 

05/26/2001 Big Pond, NS 
Bad news. It was reported that most of the boulders at Big Pond near Sydney have been blasted. Included were MacPuffin and 20 cents.  
 

05/25/2001 Fredericton, NB 
Located in the university's woodlot is a small group of sandstone boulders kept relatively shaded during summer. Just recently Chris Jones has added a new line which could be the hardest to date. Void where prohibited (V7) climbs the slopey line to the left of Crisco Killer.  
 

05/16/2001 Terence Bay, NS 
Losier has done a project at the forest area called Man Overboard (V8). It is situated uphill from Yankee Spirits and Red Bull and is known for its hard top out.  
 

05/13/2001 Yosemite Natl. Park, CA 
Congrats to local Nick Sagar who along with Tommy Caldwell did the full FFA of the Muir wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA. The hardest pitches go at .13c and is most likely the most sustained difficult line on the El Cap. Watch for Rock&Ice's next issue for pictures and details. 
 

05/13/2001 Terence Bay, NS and LOC 
In town for a short visit, Nadine Dumas from NB visited the Terence Bay forest and quickly sent Bloodflame and Red Bull both V4s then moved on to LOC where she ascended Top 6 @ 6 (V6) in warm conditions. 
 

05/12/2001 Terence Bay, NS 
Development at the Terence Bay "lake boulders" has now begun. Some lines will rise up to 25'. The boulders do not offer many features but there is a few gems to be climbed. The nearby lake offers a quick dip between problems. The hardest line to date is Vice Grip checking in at V7 with also a project to its left in the V8-9 range.  
 

05/11/2001 Sydney, NS 
photo: Wayne Tucker 
Local Aneal Virick has repeated MacPuffin (V6) for its second ascent after Losier's ascent last fall. 
 

04/24/2001, Terence Bay, NS and LOC 
Jonathan Graham did the 3rd ascent of Bar Fight (V8) after a few days of work. Still at Terence Bay, Greg Campbell did the 2nd ascent of Tumor (V6). At LOC, Jeff Lockyer did Tombstone (V5) and Ghislain Losier added Milking the Cow (V7), old arete project with a stiff sit-start on the Bung boulder.  
 

04/14/2001, Terence Bay, NS 
Losier has repeated Sagar's The Gamey Bird V9 after falling numerous times from the last move. He also added Sister Sarah V5, Yankee Spirits V7, and Tumor V6.  
 

04/13/2001, Squamish, BC 
Dan Gable is pretty much on a rampage - after being denied entry to the States (for apparently looking too much like an "immigrant without a work visa" i.e., a grubby boulderer with all his possessions in his car)  he moved to Squamish.  He sent The Egg (V11?) in 2 hours, flashedZero Zero (V10), and added his own testpiece - Encore Une Fois (V11), which is a rail traverse to a sloping, oddly angled arete.  A beautiful problem! Trent Hoover completed his project from last year calling it Mantra (V8 range). Also, Peter Michaux is apparently in the process of writing a new edition of the guidebook.  Finally, word is that Rich Castillo from Calgary climbed the Mandala in Bishop! --- news by T.Hoover  
 

03/31/2001 LOC, NS 
Jonathan Graham repeated There is no spoon (V6) at the strip then later along with Greg Campbell they stuck Bumper Sticker (V5) at the Great Cheesecake. Dave Kirby, getting ready for his month long trip to Australia, did Tombstone (V7) after a few days of work then Top 6@6 on his first go. 
 

03/31/2001 Terence Bay, NS 
The new boulders in TB will host some of the best lines around Hfx. The biggest project to fall was a slightly overhanging prow with small crimps. Nick Sagar completed the line and the concensus  seems to be V9. On the easier scale Bloodflame V4 is already a popular arete. Stay tuned for pictures. 
 

03/23/2001 Halifax, NS 
The last 2 months in Halifax has been terrible for bouldering but the weather in March has proven to be excellent and development has already started. First off, Punchalee (V6) at Terence Bay has seen its first repeat by Greg Campbell on his second day of work. Another first repeat was for Ex-Cowboy (V4) by Jonathan Graham on the Soleil boulder. Nick Sagar, fresh from a short visit to Fontainebleau, fired off the sit-start project to Tombstone and called it Buried Alive (V8). He also found some new quality and concentrated boulders close by the main Terence Bay boulders. 
 

01/21/2001 Halifax, NS 
Well, Halifax has just been dumped by a large obscene amount of snow. It seems like the boulders will covered for atleast a week or two. An exploration trip out at Terence Bay has confirmed that there are big boulders with good potential although an approach by canoe will be prefered. The boulders are big and concentrated. We will have to wait until the ice melts... 
 

01/06/2001 LOC 
"The Pleasure Dome" project recently sent by Sagar has been dubbed High Maintenance (V10). On Thursday Sagar repeated Losier's Overdrive on the Bung boulder and came close to completing the sit-start to the Tombstone (V7) which was repeated by Losier. A set of new boulders have been found between Nouveau Riche and Pleasure Dome. Only a few lines have been climbed but this area named the "Ocean view" boulders might become a favorite spot for beginners. 

2000

12/21/2000 LOC 
JP Graham added Jaune Jaune Citron (V6) a slopey traverse on the big boulder at Area 51. Sean Therien completed his project at The Great Cheesecake calling it Beginning to see the light (V6). Back on Bung boulder, Ghislain Losier did the short crimpy prowOverdrive(V8/9). Losier is working on a set of boulders just outside LOC where the ultra esthetic line Tombstone has already been grabbed by Nick Sagar who is also working on adding a sit start to it. On Tuesday Dec. 19, Sagar completed the "Pleasure Dome project" after 2 days of work, although still unnamed it should check in the V9/10 range. Down for Rock Works' Boulder Joust, New Brunswicker Chris Jones had a good short visit placing 2nd in the Advanced category and sending Top 6 @ 6 (V6) on his second go. The event drew 45 competitors from the area and even some from New Brunswick and Sydney, NS.

12/21/2000 Terence Bay, NS 
Seems as the future of bouldering in Terence Bay near Sorrow's End isn't looking too promising. Utility polls have been erected for futur properties next too some boulders and the access road. We'll have to wait and see. Losier still made a few trips to the area and repeated Sagar'sBar Fight (V8). In early November, Losier and Kirby started working on a slightly overhanging highball face with bad falls potential. Losier finally succeeded on the nightmare calling it Fear of Flying tentatively rating it V6/7. The crux comes at the 15' mark where with a high left heel hook you slap a high right gaston off of really bad holds. A fall here could result in very serious back problems! 
Across the bay is another ridge of clusters of granite boulders waiting to be climbed. The boulders there are huge. 25 foot + boulders are common. The only problem to go up is The Evil Shredder (V4) on the Turtle boulder. This area is on crown land.

10/28/2000 Halifax, NS 
More people have been checking out the new problems in Prospect in the last few weeks. New hard problems to go up include Punchalee (V6), left of Her Hands eh?! (V7),  and Un Modele du Mal, just to the right of Pushed. Losier grabbed the 2nd ascent of Inbangyang andPushed after many days of work then climbed Resurrection in mid-October confirming the grade. Again at LOC, Dave Kirby was in good form as he sent Captain Hook (V5) after weeks of work then impressively flashed the slopey traverse Can't Trust Skinny People (V5). JP Graham, now returned in Halifax, along with Sean Therien were busy scrubbing as they discovered a new small area with similar sized boulders as Gros Poisson. Should be interesting to see!

10/06/2000 Terence Bay and LOC 
During the last 2 months Nick Sagar has put up a some new gems near Terrence Bay. Surprisingly enough the problems are very concentrated and rank as the hardest in the region. Some of these include Pushed (V9), a hop-start to a high gaston, Bar Fight (V8), a slopey traverse that drains and spits you out at the crux 5 feet from the finish, and Inbangyang (V8) a recent ascent which involves a hard move to a non-existent hold then blind slaps on slopers. 
Nick also repeated some classic testpieces at LOC that remained unrepeated since the FAs of Losier. The first to go was Hanky Panky (V7) at the Great Cheesecake. Then at Nouveau Riche, he climbed La Force du Sang  and the highly technical arete Dynamitus previously thought to be V7 and V6 respectively. 
 

08/31/2000 Squamish, BC 
Last week a big gang from NB was in Squamish to experience its bouldering below the Grand wall. On his first day, Ghislain Losier pulled off a rapid ascent of Corrupted (V10) then a few days later he balanced himself up a V8 slab first done by French Jean Minh Trinh-Thieu. Mitch Leblanc climbing very strong also did Corrupted and then climbed Chris Sharma's Sesame Street (V11). Good job guys!

08/13/2000 LOC 


Nick Sagar pushing the envelope at LOC with Resurrection V10. photo: G.Losier

Nick Sagar has sent one of LOC's best project this past sunday on the Corn boulder. Resurrection (V10) climbs an overhanging corner starting on a good hold and immediately explodes into four long powerful moves finishing with a tricky arete top out. Nick and Heather have also been developing a new area of boulders near Halifax.

07/25/2000 Halifax, NS 
Last weekend was Ground Zero's 3rd annual Summer Meltdown and bouldering festival. Read the great report by Sean Therien in the Events page.

07/25/2000 Squamish, BC 
Mitch Leblanc has reported to have climbed Driveshaft V8/9 and Worm World Cave V9.

07/09/2000 Squamish, BC 
Mitch Leblanc, a Fredericton local climber now on a year-long road trip, has reported to have climbed Squamish classic boulder problem Golden Boy (V7/8) in four tries. He's now psyched in sending more testpieces and is supposedly working The Egg! Stay tuned.

07/08/2000 LOC 
During the past few weeks, locals and non-locals have been visiting LOC putting up new problems and  repeating old ones. On Canada day, Sean Therien sent a project on the Borg boulder naming it Resistance is Futile V5. That same weekend Ghislain Losier climbed a new classic on the Pleasure Dome simply called The Pleasure Dome V3 (crux at the 20' mark!). The guidebook for LOC is expected to be release on Saturday July 15. You can look for it at your favorite outdoor shop in the Halifax region. Don't forget the Summer Meltdown comp is on the following weekend (July 22nd).

06/02/2000 LOC 
JP Graham added two problems at the Scrappy boulders with The Greenhouse Expert and The House Plant Expert both V2. Sean Cassidy repeated El Chalupa for its first repeat and then got to work on Crystal Light (V7). A blown tip put a break to his attempts but says he'll be back for more! A harder line just to the right of Crystal Light, dubbed Bring the Pain V9/10?, has been attempted only a few times at a time due to the sharpness.

05/04/2000 LOC 
Locals have recently developed a new small area close by Nouveau Riche named The Great Cheese Cake. One of the classics is a 5ft-dyno, Hey that's my Bike V3,  first done by JP Graham. The arete project at Nouveau Riche was done by Losier, Dynamitus V6.

04/19/2000 LOC 
It seems that the warm weather has finally pulled out the gym rats to LOC. Problems are being sent like crazy; it's hard to keep up! One of the most notable ascent is the tall arete on Gros Poisson which was attempted from a sit-start for a few months. Cassidy started it from standing and the product is a great highball problem on good holds --- V2. A lot of people have been visiting the Ultima area where the Pleasure Dome and the Ou est-ce que tu es? area are being developed. There is  reports of quality problems at these areas.

04/11/2000 Fredericton, NB 
ROAD TRIP, ZigTV's upcoming video, features great Halifax bouldering action and the trailer is now online!

04/08/2000 LOC 
Marc D'Astous was at LOC during the weekend and put up a few easy problems on the Moon and Road Rage boulders (aka Roadside #2). Charibou V1(?) starts as for The end of the Moon but traverses right and finishes with a tricky top out. Traveling Band V1, on the Road Rage, goes up the clean corner by the pine trees.

04/01/2000 LOC


Jeff Lockyer on the FA of Latino Heat V5, photo: Becky

While many were visiting the new Ultima boulders or climbing established problems, others opted in establishing new problems. On Saturday, Jeff Lockyer snagged the sloper arete problem on the Gros Poisson's short side which he called Latino Heat and goes at around V5. Ghislain Losier once again at the Nouveau Riche area climbed 2 new difficult lines. Nouveau Itch V6 begins with a difficult sit start then continues up a slopy arete and a hard top out. Hoof Maker V6 starts in a small cave and finishes up past sharp crimps. A slopy traverse on the frontside of the smaller boulder was cleaned but no one succeeded.

03/25/2000 LOC 
Back from Hueco Tanks Ghislain Losier resumed his full-time job of establishing new problems at LOC. Ghislain started by climbing the line between Top 6 @ 6 and Crystal Light on the Satellite boulder calling it El Chalupa V5. The next day he alone hauled 3 pads up to Corn boulder and sent a bold highball problem on the front side called Jackalops Can Kill V3. JCK has potential for a very bad landing midway at the crux. A pad had to be placed on the boulder 3 ft from the problem (behind this boulder is a 10 ft drop off). He spent his last day at Nouveau Riche where he put up Le Punk V1, a slab problem, and after much effort La Force Du Sang. This problem is to the right of the obvious crack problem (and Le Punk) and starts on 2 crimps below the 2 hand flat hold where it then climbs up the corner. He believes it's V7.

03/23/2000 
Sean Cassidy has completed a guidebook to the bouldering at Crystal Crescent Beach. It contains over 60 problems and has helpful photo/topos. You can purchase the guide at  the climbing gyms and other outdoor shops.

03/18/2000 LOC 
More boulders have been found at LOC this time past Nouveau Riche. A handful of boulders dubbed the Ultima boulders can be reached by following the ATV trail (starts 50' before the Whale Back convenience store) for roughly 15 minutes.

02/25/2000 LOC


Doucette cranking a classic V0 at The Strip.

A new short wall named The Strip has been developed providing excellent warm-ups and a great spot for beginners. Losier also added a gutsy new problem on the big boulder in Area 51 calling it Show Me Your Guts V3/4. Ghislain explains: "You start by standing on two rocks in front of the overhanging prow. Look at the two incuts and jump. You got to commit 100% or you'll eat it bad! From there it's a tricky top out on your left. It's great!"

02/24/2000 LOC


Ex-Cowboy, photo: J.Lodge

This past week at Peggy's Cove was great for bouldering. Mild weather and no snow provided excellent conditions. Ghislain Losier was busy again cleaning and establishing new problems at LOC during 5 consecutive days. The second boulder part of the Asteroids(the boulders on the left past the roadside #2 boulders) dubbed Soleil yielded 9 fun problems from V0 - V6. Some of the unique problems are Ex-Cowboy V4 involves a hop start to a diagonal edge 8 feet up, and La Vache Qui Rit V6 a hard sit start linking into Fromage S.V.P. V3. You can expect the LOC guidebook to come out in a couple of months.

02/09/2000 LOC 
The crew was out at LOC taking full advantage of the milder temps and established 5 new problems. The first problem to go was a short intense sloper problem on a new small boulder that Ghislain had found and cleaned 2 days earlier. After a few tries, Losier sent the problem calling it Cat Power V5. They then went on to the Gros Poisson and Jungle boulders. Sean Therien established 2 new lines, one of them a slab on Jungle and the other a nice balancy line on Gros Poisson dubbed The Secret V2. Losier completed his line to the left of Think Bigcalling it Le Safari V5 and added a scouchy problem just to the left of The Secret named Hot Pants V3. The name was taken after Therien's constant singing at the end of the day while drinking a cold one: "Can I get some......... HOT PANTS!!!"

01/16/2000 Crystal Crescent Beach


Losier flashing Aquaman V5 on a crisp day. 
photo: Sean Cassidy

Despite the -25 Deg. Celcius temps on sunday, Ghislain Losier convinced Sean Cassidy to show him his problem Aquaman located at Crystal Crescent Beach. Losier was so psyched about the problem that he forgot about the cold for a minute and climbed it on his first go. They later agreed on a grade of V5 (previously V6).

01/13/2000 LOC 
The last week or so in Halifax have been extremely cold. Still, a few have ventured into the cold to boulder at LOC. On thursday, Ghislain Losier and Marc D'Astous both from N.B. met up with Jeff Lockyer to continue the development of the Jungle and Gros Poisson boulders. Marc and Jeff started working on a difficult arete from a sit start on the Gros Poisson where as Ghislain opted to throw himself at a nightmare crimpy traverse along the cave's lip just to the right of the arete. Ghislain has also been working on a desperate sloper problem just to the left of Think Big.

01/12/2000 Herring Cove 
Greg Campbell has published a topo-guide for the bouldering at Herring Cove. The guide is available at Ground Zero, Valhala, and Indoor Adrenaline.

01/09/2000 LOC


When Stars Attack V6 
photo: Chris Jones

An enthusiastic crew from Fredericton, NB left at 5 am on saturday to make the 5 hour trip to LOC for the day. Upon arriving to LOC, a blizzard welcomed the climbers and lasted for 2 hours. The quartet still managed to climb some of the area's best lines. At the Jungle boulder, Chris Jones succeeded on the amazing Think Big V3. Jones did the 2nd ascent and confirmed Captain Hook V4 on the Corn boulder. As the short day was winding down, the crew headed for the Scoop and Area 51. Ghislain Losier was quick to get working on the project right of Bop Gun on the Scoop boulder. With some encouragement, Losier topped out to produce When Stars Attack V6. But it was soon time to drive back home. They were happy about the results of their trip.

1999

12/19/99 LOC


Losier sticking the crux move on Dancing to the New Bolero V8.

Back from a short road trip to Bishop, CA, Ghislain Losier went back to work on a project on the Corn boulder at LOC. After no success, Losier proceeded to work on the project on the Bung boulder, a very crimpy traverse including a long throw from micro crimps to a sloper. After unlocking the key to the crux and then some work, Losier sent the problem calling it Dancing to the New Bolero. He sent his first and second V8 at the Happy and Sad boulders just 2 weeks prior to this problem and feels that Dancing to the Bolero deserves a grade of V8.

11/20/99 LOC 
Marc D'Astous from Moncton, NB made another trip to LOC and sent the FA of the area's best dyno: Think Big V3. Losier grabbed the FA of Lockyer's new line calling it Lobster Trap V4. Along with the help from Losier and Lockyer the trio cleaned off many projects in the V7 and up range on the new Jungle and Gros Poisson boulders. 

11/18/99 LOC 
Losier added Captain Hook V4 and Corn Holio V3 to the list of many challenging problems found on the Corn and Bung boulders. Lockyer climbed a short slopey traverse on Bung which remains unnamed V1 and is working on a project on an arete which involves humping your knee on a corner! 

11/16/99 LOC 
Losier put up La Sacre Volee V5 at a new undisclosed area (Nouveau Riche) which also contains classics by JP Graham. Stay tuned for more development.

11/02/99 Crystal Crescent Beach 
This summer Sean Cassidy put up another hard traverse which he called Aquaman and tentatively rated it V6. Other problems have been sent at the beach and a guide is in the works. 

10/19/99 LOC 
Ghislain Losier completed Crystal Light V7, Du Bon Poulet V5 and other new problems on Lake boulder and Satellite.

10/16/99 LOC 
Jeff Lockyer put up Top 6 @ 6 V6 on Satellite. It has now seen repeats by Greg Campbell and Losier. 

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