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Porcupine Fortress


Beautifully sheltered area for shoulder season climbing. Most of the path in is marked by red tape (see map) until you arrive at the well-worn local trail, at which point you should turn right. The climbing spot is just a few hundred metres further. (There is another climbing spot, Sideshow, at the entrance to the trail, just across the ditch on the left).



1. The Quill V0
Traverse the entire rail as it progressively takes you higher on wonderful comfortable holds. One of the best V0s in Nova Scotia.

P. Project
Climb the face. Looks hard.



2. Don't Sneeze V4
Start with both hands in the seam and climb the roof feature on huge holds to the last jug, then drop off.

3. Dracula's Big Adventure V2
Climb the seam left to right and hop off at the end.

4. Tick Country V5
Start with both hands on jugs, throw up a committing toe jam and reach back for a flat hold. Tricky and committing, spotters and good pads help.



5. Qbert V0 SDS
Climb the short corner. It's VERY dirty.

6. Quake V0
No hands start up dirty slab.

7. Quandry V0
More dirty slab.

8. Quiche V1 
Go straight up the slab or aim slightly to the right.


9. Mask Man V8 SDS
https://youtu.be/aqq1WITx4T4
Start sitting on the boulder compressing the low feature. Hard scrunchy move to crimp, committing throw to jug, then scary topout. Fantastic problem, but committing with an ankle breaking landing. (FA. Zig, May 2002)



10. The Quiver V4
Start sitting on the ledge, up the mini dihedral. Try not to fall in the hole.



11. Anchor Chain V4 SDS
Start sitting with crack and crimps and follow left leaning crack to top.

11a. Floating Fortress V7 SDS https://youtu.be/KJmVyKaAihw
Eliminate. Climb Anchor Chain to the bulbous undercling and arbitrarily make your life substantially more difficult by climbing directly out the bulge. Can be done statically or dynamically.

12. Farewell Dear Leader V3 SDS
Start with both hands on low crimps, then climb the overhanging face.

13. Cantilever V2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNa-tkCcOXM
Start with both hands on the undercling, move to the jug to the left, and find your way up. Exclusion: The moss and whatever is under it.


14. Torpedo Bay V2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Bu5MxIHGh8
Start with both hands on the undercling and make your way along the underclings to the right. The moss is excluded here too, but there is a useful hol on its edge. 



13. Confidence V4 SDS
Start sitting, both hands on arete, and do balancey moves to keep yourself on the arete. 



14. The Wishing Well V4
Reclaimed by the jungle. Hard start on super low feature, grab the impossibly dirty lip.



15. What's Dave's Problem V1 
Climb the flake. Bring a brush  shovel.

Step Function Boulder

This set of boulders is visible to the left of the trail, just before arriving at the primary Porcupine Fortress Area.


16. Step Function V3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqOvodTLTBs
Start at the handle. Reach for the crack on the right and then head up the large slopers on the left. 

17. Log Rhythm V1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dc78OmFKJRk
Start at the same handle and move rightwards under the overhang and upwards onto the slab. A solid problem for beginner climbers: long, tricky, and low-risk. 

18. Algae Rhythm V0. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SmcoplVGRo
Basic, easy climb. 


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