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Dover - Under Development

Nova Scotia bouldering offers a lifetime of play and discovery for climbers willing to look off the beaten track. What follows is a list of some new or lesser known climbs waiting for further development to find a topo to call their home.

Warm-Up Area

Dan Jolivet getting "Dirtbag Casual" during boulderfest 2013Photo courtesy of Aidas Rygelis

1. Dirtbag Casual 
Traverse the Lip to challenging rock-over mantle to finish (FA Todd Foster, 2013)

The Gift

All too often the sea reclaims classic seaside boulders. It is a rarity that ice and weather instead reveals new, quality climbing. In 2018 however, climbers arrived at Dover to see that the gods had blessed us by clearing out a jumble of choss and opening up featured roof climbs just under the pond before the Solarium. FAs all went up at Boulderfest; many more problems to be had here!


1. Low Hanging Fruit SDS V2  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qehTt_gE6xM
Start seated under the lowest roof and climb straight up on cracks and blobs. Don't forget to milk the no-hands double kneebar. (FA Dan Jolivet 2018)

2. Giv'r (Project) V? 
Compress your way out the roof on sidepulls. 

3. The Gift (Project) V? 
Climb straight out the longest part of the roof on tiny crimps that might break.

4. Two Deep SDS V4 https://youtu.be/-4sEMZhjgAI
Start matched on block, toss your legs up into the offwidth and climb up and out the crack. (FA Ian Whitehead 2018) 

The Warmup Wasteland

Between the Warm-up Area and the Wave, you won't miss it if you take the low walking route near the ocean.


2. Junebug Traverse V2 
From a sit start on the low ramp, traverse around the corner through around 50 feet of smears and heel hooks to top out at the obvious jug deep in the alley. 
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